ARTICHOKE SOUP

* 2 lbs. Artichokes—3d. * * 2 Onions—1/2d. * * 1 1/2 pints Milk—4d. * * 2 quarts Bone Stock (White) * * 1 tablespoonful Vinegar * * 1 tablespoonful Lemon Juice * * 1 doz. White Peppercorns—1d. * * Total Cost—8 1/2 d * * Time—One Hour and a Quarter. * Peel the artichokes and lay them in vinegar and water for an hour; this will make them a good colour. Mix up half a pint of the milk with the stock, and boil the artichokes, onions, and peppercorns in this for an hour. Rub through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon. Stir in the milk and some salt, pour back into the saucepan and stir until it boils. If the artichokes do not thicken the soup sufficiently, sprinkle in a little sago or semolina when it is returned to the saucepan. Serve with fried bread.



CHAPTER XVIII.



FIFTY RECIPES FOR FISH.

The consumption of fish as a daily article of food is not nearly so large as it ought to be if we studied our health. It must be admitted that it is much more expensive than meat, and cannot be bought so readily. Then again, ordinary plain cooks only know how to fry and boil it, so that very little variety can be obtained; and even these two methods are often so badly followed as to take away rather than tempt the appetite. Not one cook in a hundred knows how to boil fish properly. If a little more time and attention were given to fish-cooking we should not have so many complaints, and fish, instead of being a neglected food, would be a much desired one. It has one or two advantages over meat. It is easier of digestion, for one thing. It is therefore an invaluable food for people obliged to be indoors a great deal, or for those engaged in literary work, for it contains, besides other good things, a good proportion of phosphorus, and this is excellent food for the brain and organs of the chest. It is, however, with the cooking of fish that we have to deal. In the first place, be sure that it is perfectly fresh. The flesh should be firm and hard; if soft and leaving the mark of the finger if pressed, it must be rejected. It must also smell sweet; again, it must be thoroughly cooked. It is a matter of taste whether we like well or underdone meat, but underdone fish is the most unwholesome as it is the most repulsive food that can be offered to us, and in no process of cooking is more judgement required than in the cooking of fish. Fillets of fish of all kinds, either boiled, steamed, or baked, look transparent when raw, but are milk white when cooked sufficiently. If the French method of frying is practised, the large quantity of fat cooks it very quickly, and as soon as it is brown it is done. In boiling and steaming large fish so much depends upon the quantity of water or steam used. Never leave fish in the water after it is cooked. Put it on to a hot dish and cover with a cloth, and stand over a saucepan of hot water till required; if left in the water it soon becomes insipid and watery. In all dishes of dressed fish much depends upon the sauce served with it. Very simple directions for making several fish sauces will be found amongst the sauce recipes, and if these are carefully studied, the art will be easily acquired. In country districts where fish can be had for the catching, it should form the chief item in at least one meal during the day; and if variety in dressing it is studied, it will not be found monotonous, as it sometimes is if only fried and boiled. The ice chest will be found invaluable for keeping fish good and sweet.



FISH CAKES

* 1/2 lb. Cold Boiled Fish—5d. * * 1/2 lb. Cold Boiled Potatoes—1d. * * Pepper and Salt * * Frying Fat * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * 1 Egg—1d. * * 1 tablespoonful of Milk, Bread Crumbs—1d. * * Total Cost—9d. * * Time—5 minutes. * Free the fish from skin and bone and flake it up; mash the potatoes smoothly, mix together and season with pepper and salt. Put the milk and butter into a saucepan, and when it is quite hot put in the fish and the potatoes. Beat up the egg, and put half in, and mix together till hot through; spread on to a plate and stand away to cool. Add a teaspoonful each of water and oil to the egg. Make some bread crumbs on a sieve, and put them on to a piece of paper. Shape the fish mixture into cakes about one inch high and two inches across; brush them over with the egg, and toss them into the crumbs. Shape again and fry in very hot fat, arrange in the form of a wheel on a dish paper, garnish with fresh or fried parsley, and serve hot.



BAKED BREAM AND EGG SAUCE

* 1 Bream—6d. * * 1/2 pint White Sauce—2 1/2d. * * 1 Egg—1d. * * Parsley, Lemon Juice—1/2d. * * Total Cost—10d. * * Time—20 minutes * Wash the bream, rub some dripping on to a baking sheet, lay on it the fish, squeeze over a few drops of lemon juice; cover with a piece of paper well rubbed with dripping, and bake in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes or longer, if the fish is large. Remove the skin and fins, and put them on the dish; pour over the white sauce, which should be just thick enough to coat the fish. Chop the parsley finely, and boil the egg hard, cut it in half, and either chop the yolk or rub it through a sieve, and chop the white. Arrange these in alternate rows all over the fish, and garnish with a few lemon slices.



FISH A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL

* 2 Bream—8d. * * 1/2 pint White Sauce—2 1/1d. * * Lemon, Parsley, Pepper and Salt—1/2d. * * Total Cost—11d. * * Time—20 minutes * Fillet the fish, wash and trim them, roll them lightly up with the skin inside. Rub a baking sheet with some butter or dripping. Put on the rolls of fish close together. Squeeze over them some lemon juice, cover with a piece of buttered paper, and bake in the oven for twenty minutes or until they look milk white. Dish them carefully, make the white sauce by recipe given, season it with pepper, salt, and half a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Chop half a teaspoonful of parsley very finely and stir it in, pour over the fish, and serve.



FISH AND TOMATO SAUCE

* 2 Bream—8d. * * 1/2 pint of Tomato Sauce * * Salt, Pepper, and Parsley—3d. * * Total Cost—11d. * * Time—20 minutes * Fillet the bream; cut each fillet into two pieces, wash and trim them. Make some tomato sauce by recipe given. Butter a pie dish, lay in the fillets, and season them; pour over the sauce, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Garnish with a little chopped parsley, and serve in the dish in which they were cooked.



OYSTER STEW

* 1 bottle Oysters—1s. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * 1/2 pint Milk * * 1/2 oz. Flour—1d. * * Pepper, Salt, and Lemon Juice—1/2d. * * Total Cost—1s. 2 1/2 d. * * Time—5 Minutes * Make a sauce by directions given, using a little of the oyster liquor mixed with the milk; flavour with salt and pepper, and a little nutmeg and lemon juice. Stir in the oysters and simmer for five minutes, it is then ready to serve.



AMERICAN OYSTERS

* 1 bottle of Oysters—1s. * * 1/2 pint of Milk—1d. * * 6 Soda Biscuits * * 1 oz. Butter * * Pepper and Salt—1 1/2d * * Total Cost—1s. 2 1/2 d. * * Time—5 Minutes * Put the milk and butter into a saucepan; when it boils put in the oysters and simmer for five minutes. Season with pepper and salt; break up the biscuits and throw them it. Boil up and pour into a deep dish, and it is ready to serve.



FISH AND BUTTER SAUCE

* 3 Whiting or Bream—1s. * * 1 1/2 oz. Butter * * 1 teaspoonful Parsley, Pepper and Salt 1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—1s 1 1/2d. * * Time—Three-quarters of an Hour. * Fillet the fish and cut them into strips, wash them well in cold water and dry in a cloth; twist them round, and lay in a buttered soup plate, sprinkle with white pepper and salt, and chopped parsley. Put in the rest of the butter, cover with another soup plate, and stand over a saucepan of boiling water for three-quarters of an hour; reserve the plates once while it is cooking, place in a hot dish, and pour over it the butter and parsley in which it was cooked.

This is a nice delicate way of cooking fish for an invalid.



FISH PATTIES

* 1 Small Bream—4d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * 1 oz. Flour * * 1 teaspoonful Anchovy Sauce * * 1 gill Milk * * Pepper, Salt and Lemon Juice * * Flaky Pastry—6 1/2d. * * Total Cost—11 1/2 d. * * Time—20 minutes * Bake the fish in the oven, unless there is cold fish in the larder, which will do just as well; take away the skin and bone, and flake it up. Make a sauce of the butter, flour, and milk; season with anchovy, pepper, salt, and lemon juice; stir in the fish and mix well. Line some small patty pans with flaky pastry, put a spoonful of the mixture in the centre, cover with a round of pastry, press the edges together, and trim into a neat shape; make a small hole in the centre with a skewer, brush over with egg or milk, put into a quick oven, and bake for about twenty minutes. Dish on a fancy paper, and garnish each patty with a tiny sprig of parsley.



FISH, TO FRY

Fish requires careful preparation for successful frying; it may be filleted or fried whole, but in either case it must be well washed in cold water, but not soaked; dry in a cloth. Mix on a plate a spoonful of flour, pepper, and salt. Beat on another plate an egg, with a spoonful each of water and oil, and have plenty of dry fine crumbs on a sheet of paper; when these things are all ready, dip the fish in the flour and dust off again; put at once into the egg and cover well; then drop into the crumbs, shake them all over it; next toss in the hands to shake all the loose crumbs off; lay on a plate separately, and either fry at once or leave in a cool place for an hour or two. Plunge into plenty of hot fat and fry till crisp and brown; drain for a few minutes on kitchen paper; pile on a dish, and garnish with either fresh or fried parsley.



CURRIED FISH

* 3 Bream—1s. * * 1/2 pint Curry Sauce—3d. * * 1/4 lb. Rice—1d. * * Total Cost—1s 4d. * * Time—One Hour * Make the curry sauce by recipe given elsewhere. Fillet the fish and cut each fillet in two pieces, butter a saucepan and lay in the fish; pour over the sauce, bring it up to the boil, and cook on the stove very slowly for an hour. Just before serving, season with salt and lemon juice to taste. Boil the rice and dry thoroughly; press into little cups or moulds. Dish the fish carefully and pour the sauce over it; garnish with the moulds of rice.



SCALLOPED FISH

* 1/2 lb. Cold Fish * * 2 oz. Bread Crumbs—4d. * * 1 gill Cold Fish Sauce, Pepper, and Salt—2d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * Total Cost—7d. * * Time—20 minutes. * Flake up the fish, butter a small dish, and sprinkle well with bread crumbs; put in a layer of fish, a little sauce and seasoning, and some bread crumbs. Continue this in layers until all the fish is used up. Put plenty of crumbs on top and the rest of the butter in small pieces. Bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Garnish with a sprig of parsley, and serve.



FISH PUDDING

* 1/2 lb. Blue Cod—5d. * * 1 lb. Potatoes—1d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * 1 Egg * * Pepper and Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—8d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Use cold fish and potatoes, if there are any in the larder; if not, boil a piece of blue smoked cod in some water for five minutes. Flake it up free from skin and bone and put it into a basin; mash up the potatoes and mix them in with the pepper and salt. Bind into a paste with an egg; rub some dripping on a baking sheet, turn the mixture on to it and shape into the letter S, brush over with egg or milk, and bake till brown. Slip it off on to a hot dish, and garnish with parsley.



FISH PIE

* 2 or 3 Bream—1s. * * 1 gill Milk or Melted Butter—1d. * * Short Pastry, Pepper and Salt * * Parsley—3d. * * Total Cost—1s. 4d. * * Time—Three-quarters of an Hour. * Cold fish will do very well for this dish. If fresh is used, fillet it and cut into small pieces; if cooked, flake up into small pieces. Lay in a buttered pie-dish, season with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley; pour over the sauce and cover with a short pastry made with 1/2 lb flour and 1/4 lb dripping. Brush over with egg or milk, and bake for three-quarters of an hour; garnish with parsley, and serve.



FISH IN BATTER

* 2 Mullet—8d. * * Frying Batter * * Hot Fat—2d. * * Total Cost—10d. * * Time—5 Minutes. * Fillet the mullet and cut into small pieces; dip in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Cover with French frying batter, the recipe for which is given elsewhere. Plunge into plenty of hot fat and fry until a good colour; drain for a few minutes on kitchen paper. Pile high on a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve hot.



FISH AU GRATIN

* 1 Sole—9d. * * 1 teaspoonful of Parsley * * 4 teaspoonful Bread Crumbs—1/2d. * * 1/2 Small Onion * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1 gill Good Gravy * * 1/2 oz. Fat Bacon—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—11d. * * Time—20 minutes. * Mince the onion, parsley, and bacon very finely, and put them into a basin with the seasoning and crumbs, and mix thoroughly. Butter a dish in which the fish can be both cooked and served. Spread half the seasoning on it, wash and dry the fish and lay it on this bed of seasoning; spread the rest of the seasoning on the top, pour over gently the gravy. Cover with a few raspings and put the butter on in tiny pieces. Put it into a quick oven and bake from 15 to 20 minutes, according to the thickness of the fish. Pin a paper collar round the dish, and serve at once.



FISH HASH

* 1/2 lb. Cold Boiled Fish—4d. * * 1/2 lb. Cold Boiled Potatoes * * 1/4 of an Onion—1d. * * 2 oz. Fat Bacon—1d. * * 1 teaspoonful Parsley * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1 gill Milk or Gravy * * Pepper and Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—7d * * Time—10 Minutes * Flake up the fish free from skin and bone, mash the potatoes and mix them together; season with half the parsley, pepper and salt. Mince the bacon and onion very finely; put them into a frying pan with the butter and fry for a few minutes. Stir in the fish and potatoes and turn about until thoroughly hot through. Pour over the gravy or milk and again make thoroughly hot. Heap on to a dish, and garnish with the rest of the parsley. Serve very hot.



FISH BALLS

* 1/2 lb. Cold Fish—4d. * * 1 gill Thick Sauce—1 1/2d. * * 1 teaspoonful Anchovy—1/2d. * * 1/2 pint Melted Butter—1 1/2d. * * 2 oz. Fat Bacon * * 1 teaspoonful Parsley—1d. * * 1 Egg and Pepper and Salt—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—10d. * * Time—10 Minutes * Chop the fish, bacon, and parsley finely, and mix them together with the seasoning. Make a thick sauce with 1 gill water, 1 oz flour, and 1 oz butter; flavour with anchovy and stir the fish in. Simmer for a few minutes, stir in the yolk of the egg, and turn on to a plate to cool. Make up into small balls, fill a frying pan with boiling water, put in the balls. Cover over and simmer gently for ten minutes. Dish the balls in a circle and pour over the melted butter, which has been nicely flavoured with anchovy; garnish with parsley, and serve.



FISH A LA CREME

* 4 Whiting or Schnapper—1s. * * 1 gill Milk—1d. * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1/2 oz. Flour, and Lemon Juice * * Pepper and Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—1s. 2d. * * Time—One Hour * Fillet the fish, wash the bones, and put them into half a pint of white stock, and boil them for half an hour. Strain out and mix with 1 gill of milk. Wash the fillets and roll them up, stand them in a stewpan and cook them in this liquor, covering them with a piece of buttered paper; they will take about 20 minutes.

Dish them carefully, strain the liquor, and make a sauce of it with the butter and flour by directions given. Season and flavour this and pour it over the fillets; garnish with chopped parsley and red bread crumbs, and serve hot.



FILLETS OF FISH AND CHEESE SAUCE.

* 3 Mullet or Bream—1s. * * 1/2 pint Cheese Sauce—4d. * * 1 oz. Dry Cheese * * 1 oz. Butter * * Lemon Juice * * Salt and Pepper—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—1s. 51/2 d. * * Time—25 Minutes. * Fillet the fish, wash and dry them; put them on to a baking sheet, sprinkle with lemon juice. Put a few little pieces of butter over them; cover with buttered paper and bake from 20 minutes to half an hour, according to the thickness of the fillets. Place them carefully on the dish in which they are to be served, pour over them the cheese sauce nicely flavoured with pepper, salt, and parsley. Sprinkle over them some dry cheese, brown in front of the fire, or under the grill if using a gas stove, and serve hot.



COLLARED EELS

* 2 Eels—1s. 5d. * * 1 Egg—1d. * * 1/2 oz. Gelatine—1 1/2d. * * 1 fagot of Herbs * * 1 Onion * * 1 Carrot * * 1 spoonful Vinegar * * Pepper and Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—1s. 81/2 d. * * Time—One Hour and a Half * Clean the eels, cut them into pieces 2 inches long; put them in cold water well seasoned with salt, 2 dozen peppercorns and the vegetables, and a spoonful of vinegar. Bring to the boil, and skim well; then boil steadily for an hour, or longer if the eels are large. Take out the fish, slip out the bones, and cut the meat into small pieces. Put back the bones and boil the liquor quickly without the lid for half an hour, then strain off.

Dissolve the gelatine in a little cold water or gravy and stir in. If a very special dish is desired, the liquor can be clarified with the white of an egg in the same way as jelly. Rinse a mould in cold water, arrange in it the pieces of eel and a hard boiled egg cut into slices with a few sprigs of parsley. Strain the liquor over and stand away till cold. Turn out and serve with a salad.



STUFFED FLATHEAD

* 1 Flathead—9d. * * 2 oz. Forcemeat—2d. * * 1 gill Gravy * * 1 oz. Dripping—1d. * * Total Cost—1s. * * Time—Half an Hour * Take a little veal forcemeat and season nicely. Sew this into the flathead and truss it into the shape of the letter S. Rub some dripping on to a baking sheet, which should only be just large enough to take the fish. Put some dripping on the top, and bake in a moderate oven for half-an-hour, or longer if large. Slip it on to a hot dish, draw out the trussing string carefully, flavour and boil up the gravy and pour round it. Serve very hot.



OYSTERS AND BACON

* 1 doz. Large Oysters—6d. * * 3 Rashers Bacon * * Pepper, Salt and Lime Juice—3d. * * Total Cost—9d. * * Time—10 Minutes. * Mix some pepper, salt, and lemon juice together, and lay oysters in this. The bacon should be cut very thin, and then into strips about 1 inch broad and 3 inches long. Roll these up, and thread on a skewer first a roll of bacon and then an oyster, until the skewer is full; lay on a baking sheet and cook in the oven for about ten minutes. Have ready a hot dish, slip the bacon and oysters off the skewers on to this, and serve hot.



SCALLOPED OYSTERS

* 1 bottle Oysters—1s. * * 3 oz. Bread Crumbs—1d. * * 2 oz. Butter * * Lemon Juice, Pepper and Salt—2d. * * Total Cost—1 s. 3 d. * * Time—20 Minutes * Strain the liquor from the oysters, boil it up and pour over them, cover down for five minutes, and strain off again. Melt the butter, season with lemon juice, pepper, and salt.

Butter a dish, put in a layer of crumbs, then one of oysters; moisten with the butter, then more crumbs, and continue in layers till the dish is full. Pour over all the rest of the butter, and bake for a quarter of an hour. Serve at once.



TO COOK DRIED FISH

Put it into hot water, and boil gently for five minutes or longer if the fish is very thick. Take it out of water and put it on to a hot dish, rub a small piece of cold butter over it and cook for a few minutes either in the oven or in front of the fire. One or two soft boiled eggs broken over it is a nice way of serving it, or a few very thin slices of bacon well cooked may be placed round the dish as a garnish.



FRIED CRAYFISH

* 1 Crayfish—1s. * * French Frying Batter—2d. * * 1 teaspoonful Anchovy * * Frying Fat—1/2d. * * Total Cost—1s. 21/2 d. * * Time—3 Minutes * Pick all the white meat from a crayfish, and cut it into pieces about two inches long and one inch broad. Make a frying batter by recipe given elsewhere, and season with anchovy, lemon juice, pepper, and salt. Dip the pieces of crayfish into this and plunge into plenty of very hot fat; fry a good colour, drain on kitchen paper for a few minutes, pile high on a dish, and garnish with fried parsley.



BREAM PUDDING

* 2 Bream—8d. * * 1 gill Melted Butter—1d. * * 1/2 lb. Suet—1d. * * 1/2 teaspoonful Parsley * * Pepper and Salt * * 1/2 lb. Flour—1d. * * Total Cost—11 d. * * Time—One Hour and a Half. * Skin and fillet the fish and cut into small pieces; make a dry crust of the suet, and flour and line a pudding basin with it. Lay the fish in lightly, and season with the parsley, pepper, and salt. Pour over the melted butter; this should be made with 1/2 oz butter, 1/2 oz flour, and 1 gill of water. Cover the top of the pudding with crust, tie down securely with a cloth and string, and plunge into plenty of boiling water. Boil for one hour and a half, turn out of the basin, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve hot.



FISH RISSOLES

* 1/2 lb. Cold Fish—4d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * 1 gill Milk—1d. * * Bread Crumbs * * Hot Fat * * 1 oz. Flour * * 1 teaspoonful of Anchovy * * 1/2 teaspoonful of Parsley * * Pepper and Salt—2d. * * Total Cost—8d. * * Time—5 Minutes * Pick the fish free from skin and bone, and chop it up. Make a smooth thick sauce with the flour, butter, and water, by directions given elsewhere. Flavour it with anchovy, parsley, pepper, and salt; stir in the fish, and mix well. Turn on to a plate till cold. Make up into small balls, cover with egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat; drain for a few minutes on kitchen paper, arrange carefully on a dish, and garnish with parsley.



FISH A LA SAUMAREZ

* 2 Bream—1s. * * 2 Tomatoes—1/2d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * 1 fagot of Herbs * * 1 Carrot * * 1 oz. Flour * * Pepper and Salt * * 1 Onion * * 1 doz. Peppercorns * * Lemon Juice—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—1s. 3d. * * Time—One Hour * Fillet the fish, put the bones in a saucepan, and just cover them with water. When they boil, skim well, and add the tomatoes sliced up, the peppercorns and vegetables; boil quickly without the lid for half an hour, then strain, rubbing the pulp of the tomatoes through with the liquor. Make a smooth sauce with half a pint of this liquor, the butter, and the flour; if the colour is not good add a few drops of cochineal. Fold the fillets of fish neatly, and bake in the oven with a little lemon juice, and covered with a buttered paper. Arrange them on a dish and pour the sauce over. Serve hot.



KEDGEREE.

* 1/2 lb. Gold Fish—4d. * * 1/4 lb. Boiled Rice—1d. * * 2 Hard Boiled Eggs—2d. * * 1 oz. Butter * * Pepper and Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—8d. * * Time—5 Minutes * Flake up the fish and mix it with the rice; shell the eggs and cut them in half, put the yolks on one side. Chop the whites and mix them with the rice and fish; season nicely and put into a saucepan with the butter, and stir until thoroughly hot. Pile on a dish, and either chop the yolks and sprinkle them over, or hold a sieve over the kedgeree and rub them lightly through. Serve hot.



FISH BAKED IN VINEGAR

* 2 Mullet—6d. * * 1/2 pint Vinegar—2d. * * 1 gill Water * * 1 fagot of Herbs * * 1 doz. Peppercorns * * Salt—1/2d. * * Total Cost—81/2 d. * * Time—One Hour * Wash the fish, dry them on a cloth, and rub them with a little salt. Lay them in a deep dish, put in the herbs and peppercorns, pour over the vinegar and water. Cover with a tin, and stand in a cool oven, and bake very slowly for an hour. Take them out and let them get quite cold in the vinegar, then lay them in a dish, and strain the sauce over. Garnish with sprigs of parsley.



STUFFED CONGER EEL.

* 1 Eel—1s. * * 3 oz. Veal Seasoning—2d. * * 1 1/2 oz. Flour * * Pepper and Salt—1/2d. * * 1 1/2 oz. Butter—1d. * * Total Cost—1s. 31/2 d. * * Time—One Hour * Make the veal seasoning by recipe given elsewhere; sew it into the eel and put it into a deep dish. Just cover it with water, and bake it in a good oven for about one hour. Take it up and keep hot, strain the liquor in which it has been cooked; take about one pint and make into a brown sauce with the butter and flour. Colour it with a few drops of caramel, let it boil for a few minutes, season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice; pour over the fish, and serve very hot.



EEL AND TOMATO SAUCE.

* 1 Eel—1s. * * 6 Tomatoes—2d. * * 2 oz. Veal Seasoning—2d. * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1 oz. Flour * * Pepper and Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—1 s. 5d. * * Time—One Hour * Stuff and cook the eel as in the preceding recipe, and strain off the liquor. Rub the tomatoes through a sieve; mix with half a pint of the liquor in which the fish was cooked. Make a sauce of this of this with butte and flour, season with pepper and salt, and pour it over the fish. Garnish with parsley, and serve.



FRIED ROES

* 3 Roes—6d. * * Frying Batter * * Hot Fat * * Salt and Pepper—1d. * * Total Cost—7d * * Time—35 Minutes * Put the roes on in cold water and boil for about half an hour. Take them up and let them get quite cold, then cut into slices. Make some frying batter by recipe given elsewhere. Season it with salt and pepper, dip in the slices, and fry a good colour. Pile high on a dish and garnish with fried parsley. Roes may also be fried in egg and bread crumbs; they are prepared just in the same way, only covered with egg and crumbs instead of batter.



CODS' ROES IN TOMATO SAUCE

* 2 Roes—4d. * * 1 gill Tomato Sauce—2d. * * Cayenne * * 3 slices Toast * * 1 Egg * * Nutmeg and Salt—2d. * * Total Cost—8d. * * Time—40 Minutes. * Cods' roes are the best for this dish, but any roes will do. Wash them well, cover with cold water seasoned with salt, and boil for half an hour, or longer if the roes are large. Take them up and stand away till cold, then cut into slices about half an inch thick. Make some tomato sauce by recipe given elsewhere; when it is boiling, season with cayenne, nutmeg, and salt; stir in the yolk of an egg, lay in the slices of roe, cover down until hot through. Cut the toast into as many pieces as there are slices of roe, stand them in a dish, and put on each some roe. Make the sauce very hot, pour it over, and serve at once.



MULLET AND TOMATOES

* 2 Mullet—8d. * * 6 Tomatoes * * Bread Crumbs * * 1 teaspoonful Parsley * * Salt and Pepper—2d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * Total Cost—11d. * * Time—30 Minutes * Fillet and slice up the mullet, season each slice with parsley, pepper, and salt. Dip the tomatoes in boiling water, skim and slice them up. Butter a pie-dish, lay in the slices of fish and tomatoes alternately. Cover the top with bread crumbs and little pieces of butter. Cover the buttered paper and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour; take off the paper, and serve hot.



AMERICAN FISH

* 1 Flathead—1s. * * 1/2 pint Brown Sauce—1d. * * 3 oz. Fish Forcemeat * * 1 oz. Dripping—4d. * * Total Cost—1s. 5d. * * Time—30 Minutes. * Make a forcemeat and sew it into the fish. Rub some dripping over a baking sheet, truss the fish into shape, and lay it on. Rub the rest of the dripping on to a piece of paper, cover the fish carefully, bake in rather a hot oven for half an hour or longer, according to size; take of the paper, dish it, and pour round a nice brown sauce. A fish forcemeat is made with 2 oz cold fish, 1 oz suet, 1 oz bread crumbs well mixed together, with some seasoning and an egg.



COLD FISH AU GRATIN

Any scraps of cold fish may be served in this way. If any fish sauce is left, nothing is nicer to warm it in; if not, make a little with 1 gill of milk or water, 1 oz of butter, and 1 oz of flour. Flake the fish up, butter a plate, put the fish in and pour the sauce over. Sprinkle with brown bread crumbs, and bake in the oven for a quarter of an hour.



SMALL FISH

Any kind of small fish will do for this dish. Wash and dry them; well butter a sheet of stiff writing paper, lay the fish in, sprinkle them with a little very finely chopped onion or shallot, parsley, pepper, and salt. Squeeze over a few drops of lemon juice, and put a few little pieces of butter about them; wrap them up in the paper and bake for twenty minutes. Serve in the paper in which they were cooked.



BAKED FISH

* 4 Mullet or Jew-fish—1s. * * 2 oz. Bread Crumbs—1/2d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * Pepper and Salt * * 1 teaspoonful Parsley * * 1 teaspoonful Sweet Herbs * * 1/2 lemon * * 2 oz. Suet—2 1/2d. * * Total Cost—1 s. 4 d. * * Time—30 Minutes. * Split open the fish and remove the head and backbone, wash well in cold water and dry in a cloth. Chop the parsley, herbs, and suet, and mix these together; add half the crumbs, the rind of half a lemon, and pepper and salt. Butter a baking tin, lay on a fish skin downwards. On this place a layer of seasoning, a little lemon juice, and a few pieces of butter; on this another fish with the cut part next the seasoning. Do the rest in the same way, piling one on top of another; over all put the rest of the crumbs and butter, bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Slip into a hot dish, and serve.



CODFISH AND POTATOES—BOUILLABAISSE OF COD.

* 2 lbs. Murray Cod—1s. * * 1 lb. Potatoes—1d. * * Slices of Roll * * 1 quart Water * * 1 fagot of Herbs * * 2 Leeks or 1 Onion * * Pinch of Saffron * * 1 1/2 oz. Butter—3 1/2d. * * Total Cost—1s. 41/2 d. * * Time—One Hour. * Put the butter into a saucepan, and when it is hot add the leeks or onion chopped small, and let them get a good colour without burning; then add a quart of water, the fagot of herbs, the saffron tied in a piece of muslin, and the potatoes peeled. Bring up to the boil, and when they are nearly cooked cut the cod into slices and lay it in. Cook slowly for twenty minutes, take up the fish, and put it in a hot dish and lay the potatoes round. Season and flavour the liquor, and boil up. Cut the bread into slices, put it into a hot dish, and strain the liquor over; serve with the fish.



BUTTERED WHITING

* 3 Whiting—1s. * * Pepper and Salt * * 1 1/2 oz. Butter * * 1 Lemon—2d. * * Total Cost—1s. 2d. * * Time—20 Minutes * Wash the whiting, dry them in a cloth, mix a little flour, pepper, and salt together, cover the fish thoroughly with this. Butter a thin dish, lay the whiting in and put the rest of the butter over them in small pieces, and put them into a hot oven; baste constantly with the butter. This must not be allowed to get black; it should be brown. When the whiting are done, which will be in from fifteen to twenty minutes, according to the thickness of the fish, place them in a hot dish and pour the butter in which they have been cooked over them.



BROILED FISH

* 2 Mullet—8d. * * 2 teaspoonful Oil * * Pepper * * Salt—1/2d. * * Total Cost—81/2 d. * * Time—10 Minutes. * Split the mullet open and wash away the black substance from the bones, dry on a cloth, rub with oil and sprinkle them with pepper and salt, and leave them in a cool place for an hour. Rub a gridiron with a piece of suet, and when it is quite hot put on the fish and broil it carefully, turning it two or three times whilst cooking. Lay on a hot dish and rub over with a little butter.

To broil successfully a very clear fire is required, and it should be made up some time before it is wanted. Broiling on a gas-stove is equivalent to broiling over a fire.



BOILED FISH

To boil fish properly it must never really boil; and in this lies the secret of success. If it boils it has a watery, insipid flavour, and drops of pieces very often when it is taken out of the water. The water must boil well before the fish is put in, and be seasoned with salt and a teaspoonful of vinegar or lemon juice; lay the fish carefully in, and bring the water to the boil again. Then draw it away from the fire, cover down closely, and keep it just below the boil. The time it takes to cook depends so much on the size and thickness of the fish that no hard and fast rule can be given; about ten minutes to every lb., will be sufficient. It is always done when it begins to leave the bone. Take it out of the water directly it is cooked, and if it is not wanted just at the time, cover it with a cloth and keep it hot. Any kind of fish sauce can be served with it, such as plain melted butter, parsley, or egg sauce.



SALT FISH

To cook salt fish it should be soaked in cold water for twelve hours, then well washed in fresh water, scraped and cleaned. Lay it in a fish-kettle, cover with cold water, then simmer very gently indeed for one hour and a half, according to the thickness of the fish. It should be dished on a serviette, and garnished with sprigs of parsley and slices of lemon. Send it to table with boiled parsnips and egg sauce.



DEVILLED SARDINES

* 1 tin Sardines—6d. * * 1/2 oz. Mustard—1/2d. * * Buttered Toast * * Cayenne—1d. * * Total Cost—71/2 d. * * Time—5 Minutes * Make the mustard with vinegar instead of water, and stir into it some cayenne and salt. Rub the sardines over with this, and either fry them in a little dripping or grill them. Cut the toast into fingers, lay a sardine on each piece, and serve hot. Sardines are also very good dipped in French batter and fried and served with fried parsley.



FISH A L'AURORE

* 1 Jew-fish—9d. * * 1/2 Small Onion * * 1/2 teaspoonful Parsley * * 1 Egg * * 1/2 pint White Sauce * * Pepper and Salt—3d. * * Total Cost—1s. * * Time—30 Minutes. * Put some dripping on a tin dish, lay the fish in it, and cover with a buttered paper and bake in the oven for twenty minutes. Take it out, split open and take out the centre bone; sprinkle the inside of the fish with finely chopped onion and parsley, pepper, and salt. Put back the upper fillet, trim away some of the bones, pour over the melted butter or white sauce, and put back into the oven for ten minutes. Boil the egg hard, remove the shell, take out the yolk and either chop it or rub it through a sieve, cut the white into shapes. Take the fish from the oven and decorate the top with the yolk and white of egg; serve hot.



FILLETS A LA ORLY

* 2 Bream—8d. * * Lemon Juice * * Parsley * * Half an Onion * * 1/2 pint Tomato Sauce * * Pepper and Salt—3d. * * Total Cost—11d. * * Time—5 Minutes * Fillet the fish and lay them in a dish; sprinkle them well with lemon juice, pepper, salt and parsley. Lay over them some slices of onion and leave them for an hour, then fry them either in batter or flour. Drain them for a few moments on kitchen paper, and serve on a dish very hot with some good thick tomato sauce in a sauce-boat.



SCANDINAVIAN PUDDING

* 2 Bream—8d. * * 2 Eggs—2d. * * 1/2 pint Milk—1d. * * 1/2 lb. Flour * * Pepper and Salt * * 1/2 pint Fish Sauce—2d. * * Total Cost—1s. 1d. * * Time—One Hour. * Fillet the fish, skin and chop very find; sift the flour into a basin, drop in the eggs, and make into a batter with the milk. Season with salt and pepper, and stir in the chopped fish. Butter a basin, pour in the mixture and boil for one hour; turn out of the basin and serve with melted butter sauce, flavoured with anchovy, or with any other fish-sauce that may be preferred.



OYSTERS AND POTATOES

* 1 bottle Oysters—1s. * * 4 Cold Potatoes—1d. * * 1 Egg—1d. * * 2 oz. Flour * * Pepper and Salt—1/2d. * * Total Cost—1s. 21/2 d. * * Time—20 Minutes. * Mash the potatoes and make them into a paste with the flour and egg, roll out and cut into small pieces. Season the oysters with lemon juice, pepper, and salt; put three of four into each piece of potato crust. Roll it up, brush over with milk, and bake for twenty minutes. Pile high on a dish, and serve hot.



STEWED FISH

* 2 Fish—9d. * * 1/2 pint Stock * * 1 blade of Mace * * 2 Cloves * * 1/2 oz. Flour—1/2d. * * 2 tablespoonful Ketchup * * 1 Onion—1d. * * 1 Egg—1d. * * Bread Crumbs * * 1 doz. Peppercorns—1/2d. * * Total Cost—1s. * * Time—One Hour and a Quarter * Fillet the fish and fry them in egg and bread crumbs; slice and fry the onion, lay this and the fish in a tin dish. Cover with stock, put in the cloves, peppercorns, and mace, cover over, and put into a moderate oven for an hour. Mix the flour and ketchup together and stir it in; put back into the oven for ten minutes. Dish the fish and strain the sauce over it.



OYSTERS AND MACARONI

* 2 oz. Macaroni—1 1/2d. * * 1 bottle Oysters—1s. * * 1 gill Milk or Melted Butter Sauce—1d. * * Cayenne * * Salt * * Bread Crumbs—1d. * * Total Cost—1s. 31/2 d. * * Time—Half an Hour. * Boil the macaroni in the oyster liquor or in weak stock till quite soft. Rub a little butter on a dish, cut the macaroni into pieces two inches long and lay it at the bottom. On this place the oysters, and season them with cayenne, salt, and a little lemon juice or nutmeg. Pour over the milk or sauce, cover with bread crumbs, and brown it in a quick oven. A few little pieces of butter laid on top of the crumbs make a richer dish. It must be served very hot.



CHAPTER XIX.



FIFTY RECIPES FOR MEAT DISHES

COOKERY OF MEAT.

The principal methods of cooking meat are roasting, baking, boiling, stewing, broiling, braising, and frying. Of these methods roasting and baking are conducted on the same principle—dry heat; boiling and stewing are often spoken of as if they were the same, but this is quite a mistake. When we boil a joint we plunge it into boiling water, and this water should cover it completely; but when meat is stewed it must be cooked in a very small quantity of water, and never allowed to boil. Water boils at 212, but simmering heat is 180, and meat cannot be properly stewed if it is cooked quicker than this. One of the great faults of English cooks is that they cook too quickly, and it is particularly necessary in stewing to cook slowly, because we want to extract and blend all the different flavours of the various substances, which are necessary for a good and savoury stew. When boiling meat for table plunge it into boiling water, and then reduce the heat; but when broth or soup is to be made it must be put into cold water, so that the goodness may be drawn from it. Corned beef or pork should also be placed in cold water and heated gradually, so that some of the salt is drawn out. The frying-pan should be discarded from the kitchen, at least as far as steaks and chops are concerned; grilling or broiling is by far the best method of cooking them. Meat unless it is very carefully fried is tough and greasy, yet the same piece of meat if grilled or stewed would be tender and nutritious. There is often a prejudice against meat twice cooked, but the most delicate ENTREES that are so highly esteemed by many are only re-cooked meat. It is the time and care expended on it that makes it so delicious. Even in plain cooking there is no reason why the homely dish of hash should not be appetizing and wholesome. I trust that the following recipes, if carefully carried out, will prove this to be true.



STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE

* 2 lbs. Steak—5d. * * 2 Kidneys—1 1/2d. * * 1 lb. Flour * * 1/2 lb. Dripping * * 1 gill Water * * Pepper and Salt—2d. * * Total Cost—81/2 d. * * Time—One Hour and a Half * Mix a teaspoonful of flour in a plate with some pepper and salt, slice up the meat into pieces about three inches long by two broad, dip each piece lightly in the flour; skin and slice up the kidneys, and cut the fat into small pieces. Roll a piece of kidney and a piece of fat alternatively in the slices of meat, pile high in a dish, and pour in a gill of water or stock. Make a short crust by directions given for short pastry, wet the edge of the dish and line it with a strip of the paste, wet this strip again with water and cover the dish with paste; trim off the edge, cut a small piece out of the centre of the pie, and ornament it with a few leaves cut out of the paste trimmings. Brush over with water and bake in a moderate oven for one hour and a half. As soon as the crust has acquired some colour, cover with a piece of paper well rubbed with dripping.



STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING

* 2 lbs. Steak—5d. * * 2 Kidneys—1 1/2d. * * 1 lb. Flour—2d. * * 1/2 lb. Suet * * 1/2 pint Water * * Pepper and Salt—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—10d. * * Time—Three Hours * Make a dry crust, by directions given elsewhere, of the flour, suet, and butter. Rub the pudding basin well with dripping, roll out the crust, take two-thirds and line the basin, well pressing the crust in. Slice up the meat and kidney, season with pepper and salt, pile lightly in the basin, pour in half a gill of water, wet the edge of the crust. Roll out the piece left, and cover the pudding securely. Dip a cloth in boiling water, put it over the top, tie it round with string, and pin or tie the ends of the cloth over the top. Plunge into plenty of boiling water, and boil for three hours. Take it up, take off the cloth, turn it out of the basin on to a hot dish, and serve hot.



STEWED KIDNEYS AND MACARONI

* 6 Kidneys—6d. * * 1 gill Stock * * 1 oz. Butter * * 2 oz. Macaroni * * Parsley, Pepper, and Salt—2 1/2d. * * Total Cost—81/2 d. * * Time—25 Minutes * Put the Macaroni into boiling water seasoned with salt, and boil for about twenty minutes, or until quite soft, but not broken. When it is boiling, skin and cut the kidneys in half, put them into a frying-pan with the butter, and toss them over the fire for two or three minutes. Sprinkle with parsley, pepper, and salt, pour over the stock or water.

Bring it to the boil, then cover down by the side of the fire for five minutes. Place carefully in the centre of a hot dish, boil up the gravy and pour over. Arrange the macaroni round the dish as a border, and serve hot.



STEWED STEAK AND WALNUTS

* 2 lbs. Steak—5d. * * 1/2 pint Water or Stock * * 3 Pickled Walnuts * * 1 teaspoonful Vinegar * * 1 teaspoonful Cornflour * * Salt and Pepper * * Total Cost—6d.—1d. * * Time—Three Hours * Cut the steak into neat pieces, put it into hot water and bring to the boil, then keep it below boiling point, but simmering very gently for two hours and a half. Mix the cornflour with a tablespoonful of the vinegar from the walnuts and stir it in, add salt to taste and a small pinch of pepper. Cut up three walnuts and put them in, bring to simmering point again, and cook for at least another half-hour, then dish neatly. Boil up the gravy and pour over it.



STEAK AND MACARONI

* 2 lbs. Steak—5d. * * 2 oz. Macaroni—1 1/2d. * * 1 oz. Dripping * * 1/2 pint Stock * * 1 Onion * * 1 doz. Peppercorns * * Salt—1/2d. * * Total Cost—7d. * * Time—Three Hours * Cut the steak into neat pieces, put the butter or dripping into a saucepan and fry the steak quickly; take it out, shred the onion and put it in with the peppercorns, and let it get quite brown. Pour over the stock and stir until it boils, then put back the steak and let it simmer very gently for three hours. While it is cooking, boil the macaroni in weak stock or water for twenty-five minutes, and if it is ready before it is wanted keep it in hot water. When the steak is done, dish it neatly, flavour the gravy, boil it up and pour over. Cut the macaroni into short pieces and place it round the dish as a garnish.



MUTTON CHOPS IN BATTER

* 2 Eggs—2d. * * 2 lbs. Chops—5. * * 1 pint Milk—2 1/2d. * * 3/4 lb. Flour * * Salt and Pepper—1/2d. * * Total Cost—10d. * * Time—One Hour and a Quarter * Break the eggs into a basin, beat in the flour with a fork, then add gradually the milk, season with a little pepper and salt. Rub some dripping on a baking dish, pour in the batter, lay in the chops. Put into a moderate oven and bake for about one hour and a quarter. Serve hot.



TOMATO PIE

* 3 or 4 Tomatoes—2d. * * 1 lb. Chops—2 1/2d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * 4 Cold Potatoes—1d. * * Pepper and Salt * * 1 tablespoonful Milk—1/2d. * * Total Cost—7d. * * Time—One Hour and a Quarter * Skin and slice up the tomatoes, put a layer at the bottom of a pie-dish, then lay in the chops. Season with pepper and salt, and cover with the rest of the tomatoes; mash up the potatoes until ver smooth. Warm the butter and milk and pour it over them and make into a paste. Cover the dish with this crust, brush the top over with a little milk, put into the oven and bake for about one hour and a quarter.



KABOBS

* 1 1/2 lbs. of Steak—4d. * * 1 dessertspoonful Curry Powder * * 1 dessertspoonful Worcester Sauce * * 1 dessertspoonful Vinegar—1 1/2d. * * 1/2 pint Stock * * 1 tablespoonful Flour * * 1 tablespoonful Chutney * * 1/4 lb. Rice * * Salt—2d. * * Total Cost—71/2 d. * * Time—One Hour and a Half * Slice up the steak into pieces about three inches long and two broad. Mix the curry powder, sauce, vinegar, flour and chutney together and spread this over the steak; roll up and thread a small wooden skewers. These skewers should be made from a very small splint of wood, just large enough to hold one or at most two of the rolls; lay them in a saucepan, pour over the stock, bring to the boil and simmer one hour and a half. While they are cooking, well wash the rice in cold water and let it soak for half an hour, throw it into boiling water for three minutes and strain off. Put a pinch of saffron in some fresh water, season with salt, and finish cooking in this. Strain off and dry in the saucepan. Pile this on a dish and lay the kabobs over it; boil up the gravy, season and flavour, and strain round the dish.



SCOTCH COLLOPS

* 1 lb. Lean Steak—2 1/2d. * * 1 gill Stock * * Pepper and Salt * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * Quarter of an Onion * * Small Sippets of Toast—1d. * * Total Cost—41/2 d. * * Time—One Hour * Remove all the fat, and cut the meat into very thin and small dice, mince up the onion very finely. Mix together, season with some pepper and salt, and put into a saucepan with the butter. Stir it about for five minutes, then pour on the stock, bring to the boil, and simmer for one hour. Arrange neatly on a hot dish, and put the sippets of toast round.



POOR MAN'S DISH

* 1/2 pint Poor Man's Sauce—1/2d. * * Slice of Toast * * Slices of Cold Meat—2d. * * Total Cost—21/2 d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Make the sauce by directions given elsewhere, pour it into a pie dish, lay in some slices of underdone beef or mutton; cover over and stand in the oven for a quarter of an hour. Cut the slice of toast into sippets, lay them round, and serve.



BREAST OF MUTTON AND PEAS

* 2 Breasts of Mutton—4d. * * 2 Onions * * 1 Carrot—1/2d. * * 1 Egg—1d. * * Bread Crumbs—1/2d. * * 1 fagot of Herbs * * 1 pint Peas * * Salt and Pepper * * Hot Fat * * 12 Peppercorns—7d. * * Total Cost—1s. 1d. * * Time—Two Hours * Wipe the meat with a warm damp cloth, and put it into a saucepan with the vegetables; bring to the boil and stew very gently for two hours. Take it up and remove all the bones, put it between two boards and stand some heavy weights on it till quite cold. Then cut into neat-shaped pieces, egg and bread crumb them; fry a good colour. Boil the peas by recipe given elsewhere. Pile the mutton on a dish and put the peas round. A breast of lamb is exceedingly nice done in this way; it may be cut off before the quarter is roasted. The liquor in which the meat was cooked makes excellent soup.



TRIPE AND TOMATOES

* 2 lbs. Tripe—5d. * * 1 doz. Tomatoes—3d. * * 1/2 pint Water or Stock * * 1 oz. Cornflour—1/2d. * * 1 Onion * * Pepper and Salt—1/2d. * * Total Cost—9d * * Time—Four Hours * Cut the tripe into neat pieces, put it on in cold water and bring to the boil; let it boil for five minutes, put it into cold water, and wash and scrape it well. Slice up the tomatoes and rub them through a sieve; mix them with the stock or water, and season with pepper and salt. Pour this into a saucepan, slice in the onion, put in the tripe, and let it boil up. Simmer gently for four hours, mix the cornflour smoothly with a little water or stock, and pour it in; stir until it boils, dish the tripe carefully, season and flavour the sauce to taste, and pour it over. Tripe is more easily digested than any other animal food, and is therefore good for people suffering with dyspepsia.



TRIPE IN MILK

* 2 lbs. Tripe—5d. * * 1 pint Milk—2d. * * Pepper and Salt * * 2 Onions * * 1 oz. Flour * * 1/2 pint Water—1/2d. * * Total Cost—71/2 d. * * Time—Four Hours * Prepare the tripe as in the preceding recipe. Mix the milk and water together, pour it into a saucepan; lay in the tripe, slice in the onions, bring to the boil, and let it simmer slowly for four hours. Season with pepper and salt, thicken with the flour; after adding the flour let it cook for fifteen minutes, then dish the tripe carefully and pour the sauce over it.



TOMATOES AND MINCE

* 8 Tomatoes—3d. * * 8 pieces Toast * * 1/4 lb. Minced Meat * * Parsley—1d. * * Total Cost—4d. * * Time—10 Minutes. * Take any remains of cold mince or hash, add more flavouring if necessary, and make it hot in the saucepan. Wipe the tomatoes and scrape out the centre, fill it up with the mince, and stand in the oven for ten minutes. Have ready some rounds of toast about the same size as the tomatoes. When the tomatoes are cooked enough, stand them on the toast, and serve.



BREAKFAST MEAT

* 1 lb. Cold Meat—3d. * * 2 oz. Macaroni—1 1/2d. * * Pepper and Salt * * 3 Tomatoes * * 1/2 gill Stock * * Bread Crumbs—1d. * * Total Cost—51/2 d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Mince up the meat, or any remains of cold hash or mince will do. If there is any cold macaroni it can be used; if not, boil some by directions given, and slice up the tomatoes. Butter a dish in which it can be cooked and served. Place at the bottom a layer of meat, then one of macaroni, then one of tomatoes, season with pepper and salt, and continue this in layers until all the materials are used up. Sprinkle a few bread crumbs on the top, put into the oven, and bake for half an hour. Serve hot.



RISSOLES

* 2 lb. Cold Meat—3d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * 1 1/2 oz. Flour * * 1 Egg * * Bread Crumbs * * 1/2 pint Stock * * Quarter of an Onion * * Parsley * * Pepper and Salt * * Hot Fat—2d. * * Total Cost—6d. * * Time—5 Minutes. * Mince up the meat and mix in some chopped parsley, pepper and salt; put the butter into a stewpan, and when it is dissolved mince up the pieces of onion very finely and fry that for two minutes, then stir in the flour. Pour in the gravy and stir until it boils; mix in the meat and let it get thoroughly hot. Turn it out on to a plate, spread it over, and leave until quite cold. Make up into balls, cover with egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat; arrange in a circle and garnish with fried parsley.



KIDNEY FRITTERS

* 6 Kidneys—6d. * * 1 teaspoonful Minced Herbs—1/2d. * * Hot Fat * * 1 teaspoonful Onion * * Frying Batter * * Pepper and Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—71/2 d. * * Time—5 Minutes * Skin the kidneys and cut up each one into three or four slices. Make a frying batter by directions given elsewhere; stir in the minced onions and herbs, and season with pepper and salt. Dip the slices of kidney into this and plunge into very hot fat. Fry a good colour, pile high on a dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve very hot. Slices of cold beef or mutton are very nice done in this way.



KIDNEY TOAST

* 2 Kidneys—1 1/2d. * * 1/2 oz. Butter—1/2d. * * 1 Slice Toast * * Parsley * * Pepper and Salt—1/2d. * * Total Cost—21/2 d. * * Time—5 Minutes. * Skin and chop the kidneys small, put into a saucepan with the butter, and cook for two or three minutes; season with pepper and salt. Spread it on the toast, sprinkle over some chopped parsley, and serve.



BEEF TRIFLES

* 1 lb. Cold Roast Beef—3d. * * 4 oz. Bread Crumbs * * Pepper and Salt—1d. * * 1 teaspoonful Onion * * 1 Egg * * 1 teaspoonful Parsley or Horse-radish—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—51/2 d * * Time—Half and Hour * Mince the beef and onion very finely, and mix it with the bread crumbs, pepper, and salt. Add either some chopped parsley or finely scraped horse-radish; mix thoroughly. Moisten with an egg well beaten, and if very dry a spoonful of gravy or milk. Butter some small cups or moulds, fill them with this mixture, and bake for about half an hour. Garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve with them some horse-radish sauce or brown gravy.



HASHED BEEF AND TOMATO SAUCE

* 1 lb. Cold Roast Beef—3d. * * 8 tomatoes—3d. * * 1 fagot of Herbs * * Salt and Pepper—1/2d. * * 1 gill Gravy * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1/2 teaspoonful Sugar * * Toast—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—8d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Slice up the tomatoes and put them into a saucepan with the butter, herbs, pepper, salt, sugar, and gravy. Stir about until it becomes quite a pulp; then rub through a sieve, season to taste, and let it get quite cold. Cut the beef into thin slices and lay it in a saucepan, pour over the cold sauce and let it get hot through, very slowly. Arrange on a hot dish, and garnish with fried sippets of bread or toast.



STEWED CHOPS

* 1 lb. Chops—2 1/2d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * Pepper and Salt * * 1/2 oz. Flour * * 1 gill Gravy—1/2d. * * Total Cost—4d. * * Time—One Hour * Trim some of the fat from the chops, put the butter into a saucepan, and when it is melted stir in the flour. Mix well, and pour in the gravy; stir until it boils, lay in the chops, and simmer very gently for one hour. Dish the chops in a circle, boil up and season the gravy, and pour over the stew.



BAKED CHOP

* 1 Chop * * Pepper and Salt * * Total Cost—1d * * Time—One Hour * Choose a nice loin chop with an undercut. Rub a little butter in a soup plate, lay in the chop, cover with another plate, and stand in a cool oven for an hour. Put on a very hot plate and pour over the gravy which has run from it. Serve very hot.



RICE CUTLETS

* 1/2 lb. Cold Meat—1 1/2d. * * 2 oz. Rice * * Pepper and Salt—1/2d. * * 1 Egg—1d. * * Bread Crumbs * * Hot Fat—1/2d. * * Total Cost—31/2 d. * * Time—5 Minutes * Mince the meat finely; if there is any cold rice in the larder it will do; if not, boil some. Mix the rice and meat well together, season and flavour with a little nutmeg or lemon peel; if the meat is very lean add 2 oz fat or beef suet. Shape into cutlets, egg and bread crumb them, and fry in hot fat; dish in a circle and garnish with fried parsley.



POTATO SAUSAGES

* 3 Cold Potatoes—1/2d. * * 1/4 lb. Cold Meat—1d. * * Nutmeg, Pepper, and Salt * * 1 Egg * * Bread Crumbs * * Hot Fat—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—3d. * * Time—5 Minutes. * Mash up the potatoes, and mince the meat; mix together,



season nicely, and mix into a paste with half the egg. Roll into sausages, egg and bread crumb, and fry in hot fat. Dish in a pyramid, and garnish with fried parsley.



BRAZILIAN STEW

* 2 lbs. Leg of Beef—5d. * * 1 Onion * * 1 Carrot * * 1 tablespoonful Vinegar * * 1 doz. Peppercorns—1/2d. * * Total Cost—51/2 d. * * Time—Three Hours * Cut the beef up in small pieces, dip them in the vinegar, and lay in a jar. Slice in the vegetables, add the peppercorns, and tie a paper over the top of the jar. Stand in a saucepan of boiling water for three hours; dish up the meat, garnish with the carrot, strain the gravy, season and flavour, boil up and pour over. Serve hot.



BEEF OLIVES

* 2 lbs. Rump Steak—10d. * * 1/4 lb. Veal Seasoning—2d. * * 12 Peppercorns * * 1/2 pint Stock * * 1 Onion * * 1 Carrot—1/2d. * * Total Cost—1s. O1/2 d. * * Time—One Hour and a Quarter * Cut up the steak into thin slices about three inches long and two broad, shape the seasoning into small corks, roll a piece up in each slice of steak, thread them on a skewer and lay them in a saucepan. Pour in the stock, add the peppercorns and vegetables, bring to the boil, simmer very gently for one hour and a half. Place the olives on a hot dish and draw out the skewers, remove the fat, boil up the gravy, season and flavour to taste, and pour round. Serve hot.



MACARONI PUDDING

* 3 oz. Macaroni—2d. * * 1/2 lb. Cold Meat—2d. * * Pepper and Salt * * 1/2 pint Gravy * * 2 Eggs * * 1/2 pint Milk * * 1 teaspoonful Parsley—3d. * * Total Cost—7d. * * Time—One Hour * Boil the macaroni in stock or water. Mince the meat finely, and season with parsley, pepper, and salt. Rub a pudding basin or mould with butter, put the macaroni and meat in in layers, and season nicely. Beat up the eggs and milk and pour them over, cover with buttered paper, and steam for one hour. Turn out of the basin carefully, and pour round it a little nice brown gravy or white sauce.



SHEEP'S TONGUES IN TOMATO SAUCE

* 6 Tongues—1s. * * 1/2 pint Tomato Sauce—2 1/2d. * * 1 doz. Peppercorns * * 1 Onion * * 1 fagot Herbs * * 1 Carrot—1d. * * Total Cost—1s. 31/2 d. * * Time—Three Hours. * Wash the tongues in cold water, put them into a saucepan, cover them with cold water or stock, and bring to the boil, then skim well. Either corned or fresh tongues will do for this dish. If corned, no salt is required; but if fresh ones are used, put in a dessertspoonful of salt. Put in the vegetables and peppercorns and simmer gently for two hours, then take them up, plunge them into cold water and remove the skin. Trim them off and cut in half. Make some tomato sauce by recipe given elsewhere. The liquor in which the tongues were boiled may be used for this if it is not too salt. Lay the tongues in and simmer for another hour; dish carefully, boil up the sauce and pour over. Garnish with chopped parsley.



BROWN MINCE

* 1 lb. Cold Roast Beef—4d. * * 1/2 lb. Bread Crumbs—1d. * * Pepper and Salt * * 1 Egg * * 1/2 pint Gravy * * Nutmeg—1d. * * Total Cost—6d. * * Time—One Hour * Mince up the beef finely and mix it with the bread crumbs; season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, or parsley. Beat up the egg, mix it with the gravy, and pour over the meat and crumbs. Butter a basin, sprinkle well with brown bread crumbs, put in the mince. Cover over with a plate and bake for an hour, then turn on to a hot dish and pour a little nice gravy round it.



STEAK A LA JARDINIERE

* 1 lbs. Steak—5d. * * 1 gill Green Peas—2d. * * 1 gill French Beans—1d. * * 1/2 oz. Flour * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1 Carrot * * 1 Turnip * * 1/2 pint Gravy * * Salt—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—91/2 d. * * Time—Three Hours * Cut the steak into neat pieces and fry very quickly in the butter; take it out, put in the flour, and when quite smooth pour on the gravy and stir until it boils. Put back the steak, and simmer very gently for three hours. Cut the carrot and turnip up into thin strips, and put them in when the steak has been cooking for two hours. Boil the peas and beans separately, and add them to the stew five minutes before serving. Arrange the steak on a hot dish, put the vegetables round, and pour over the gravy. The greater the variety of vegetables used the nicer this dish will be.



KROMSKIES

* 1/2 lb. Cold Meat—2d. * * 2 Rashers Fat Bacon—2d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * Frying Butter—1d. * * 1/2 gill Stock * * 1 oz. Flour * * Parsley, Pepper, and Salt * * Hot Fat—1/2d. * * Total Cost—61/2 d. * * Time—5 Minutes * Mince the meat finely or put it through the sausage machine, season with parsley, pepper, and salt; put the butter into a saucepan, and when it is melted stir in the flour and the stock. Stir until it boils, then add the meat and mix thoroughly. Turn on to a plate to cool. When cold make up into pieces about the size of a cork. Take some very thin rashers of fat bacon and cut into strips about half an inch wide by two inches long. Roll the meat in this, dip in frying batter, and fry in very hot fat; drain for a few minutes on kitchen paper, pile high on a dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve very hot.



KOTTBULLAR

* 2 lbs. Fillet or Beef—10d. * * 1/2 lb. Suet—1d. * * Salt and Pepper * * Hot Fat * * 1/2 pint Milk—1d. * * 2 Eggs—2d. * * Nutmeg * * Soda Biscuit * * Total Cost—1s. 21/2 d. * * Time—10 Minutes *

Mince the lean of the meat very small with about a quarter of a pound of the suet which surrounds it; season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Make a little boiled custard by recipe given elsewhere, pour it over the biscuit, which must be made into fine crumbs, then stir in the meat and let it get quite cold. Roll into small balls with a little flour. Put three ounces of dripping into a frying pan, and when very hot drop in the balls and fry a good colour; drain for a few minutes on kitchen paper, and dish in a circle. Serve hot.



BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON

* 1 Leg of Mutton—1s. 3d. * * 1 Rasher of Ham—2d. * * 1 fagot of Herbs * * 20 Peppercorns—1/2d. * * 1 1/2 oz. Butter—1d. * * 2 Carrots * * 1 Turnip * * 1 Onion * * 1 quart Stock—1d. * * Total Cost—1s. 71/2 d. * * Time—Four Hours. * Put the butter into a saucepan, and when it is dissolved put in the mutton and brown it all over; then lay the ham and vegetables round it, pour in the stock, and bring it to the boil. Cover down closely, and stand the saucepan in a moderate oven where it will cook slowly. If the braising is being done by a coal fire the lid of the stewpan may be reversed and some hot coals placed in it; these will want renewing f rom time to time. In any case cook very slowly, then dish the meat, strain the gravy, remove the fat carefully, and boil to a sort of half glaze; pour round the dish, serve with Julienne or plain vegetables.



PRESSED BEEF

* 10 lbs. Thick Brisket of Beef, Corned or Fresh—1s. 6d. * * 1 fagot of Herbs * * 1 stalk Celery—1/2d. * * 1 Onion * * 2 Carrots * * 1 Turnip * * 40 Peppercorns—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—1s. 8d. * * Time—Four Hours * Bind the beef with tapes to keep it a good shape. If it is corned, put it on in cold water; if fresh, in hot stock or water, and bring to the boil, then skim carefully and put in the vegetables and peppercorns. Simmer very gently indeed for four hours, then take it up. Take off the tapes, slip out the bones, and put it into a dish; place a piece of board on the top and some heavy weights and leave till the next day, then turn out and serve with a salad. If fresh meat is used for this dish the liquor may be used for soup, or the bones may be put back when removed from the meat and boiled without the lid very quickly for an hour. Then strain off and stand away till the next day; it should then be in a strong jelly. This may be cut into blocks and put round the meat.



CURRIED CHOPS

* 2 lbs. Chops—5d. * * 1/2 oz. Curry Powder—1d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * Lemon Juice * * 1/4 lb. Rice * * 1/2 pint Gravy or Water—1d. * * 1/2 oz. Flour * * 1 Apple * * 1 Onion * * Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—9d. * * Time—Three Hours. * Trim some of the fat away from the chops. Put the butter into a stewpan, put in the chops and brown them quickly; take out, chop up the apple and onion, and fry that too. Sprinkle with the curry powder and flour, pour in the stock or water and stir until it boils, then put back the chops, bring to the boil, and simmer very gently for three hours. Dish carefully, boil up the gravy, and if it is not thick enough boil quickly without the lid for some minutes. Season with salt and lemon juice and pour over the chops. Boil the rice by directions given elsewhere; rinse out a small mould or cup in cold water, press the rice into it, and turn out. Serve this in a separate dish, but send it to the table with the curry.



BEEF A LA MODE

* 6 lbs. Leg of Beef or Silverside—9d. * * 1 Calf's Foot—4d. * * 2 Onions * * 2 Carrots * * 1 Turnip—1d. * * 1 fagot of Herbs * * 40 Peppercorns * * 1 blade of Mace * * 6 Cloves * * Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—1s. 3d. * * Time—Five Hours. * Have the foot well chopped up, put it on in cold water, bring it to the boil. Let it boil for five minutes, then take it up and scrape and wash it well, lay it in a stewpan with the beef cut into pieces. Cover with cold water and bring to the boil, put in the spices tied in a piece of muslin, and let it simmer very gently for three hours.

Slice up the vegetables and put them in, and continue simmering altogether for about five hours. Take up the foot, take out all the bones, and cut into pieces; put back the meat of the foot into the saucepan, take out the spices, season with salt, remove the fat, boil up, and serve. This dish is always better for being made the day before it is wanted, as the fat can be more easily removed.



BEEFSTEAK ROLLS

* 1 lb. Of Beefsteak—2d. * * Bread and Butter—1d. * * 2 Cloves * * 1 Onion * * Stalk of Celery—1/2d. * * 1/2 pint Gravy * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1/2 oz. Flour * * Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—41/2 d. * * Time—Two Hours * Take a thick steak and split it open, cut it into strips five inches wide by three long. Cut some very thin bread and butter the same size seasoned with pepper and salt, lay it on the steak and roll it up, thread on a skewer and dust with flour. Put the butter into a frying-pan, and when it is hot put in the rolls and fry them quickly; take out and lay in a saucepan, cut up the onion and fry in the same butter as the rolls were fried in. Shake in a teaspoonful of flour and pour in the gravy; stir until it boils, then pour over the rolls. Put in the celery and cloves, and simmer very gently for two hours; take up the rolls on a hot dish and slip off the skewers, boil up and flavour the gravy. Remove the fat and pour round the meat. Veal or mutton is also very good prepared in this way.



BEEFSTEAK STUFFED

* 1 1/2 lbs. Of Beefsteak—4d. * * 1/2 lb. Potatoes * * 2 oz. Dripping * * Salt and Pepper—1d. * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1 tablespoonful Milk * * 1 Onion * * 1/2 teaspoonful Sage—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—61/2 d. * * Time—One Hour * Boil and mash the potatoes with the butter, milk, and salt (if there are any cold ones they will do as well); lay the steak flat and spread the potatoes over it. Chop the onion very fine and powder the sage, and sprinkle over the potatoes; roll up and tie with a tape or string. Rub some dripping over a baking sheet, put in the steak, and plenty of dripping on the top. Put into a moderate oven and bake for an hour, basting frequently. Put on to a hot dish, take off the tapes, and pour round it some nice gravy. Send mashed potatoes to table with it.



FRICASSEE OF LIVER

* Half a Calf's Liver—3d. * * 1 1/2 oz. Butter—1 1/2d. * * 1 Carrot * * Lemon Juice—1/2d. * * 1 Onion * * 1 oz. Flour * * 1 pint of Gravy * * Parsley * * Pepper and Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—6d. * * Time—One Hour * Wash and slice up the liver, and dip in the flour; fry very lightly and quickly in the butter and lay in a saucepan. Slice up the carrot and fry in the same butter. Stir in the gravy, boil up, and pour over the liver; simmer very gently for one hour, then dish carefully. Season the gravy with salt, pepper, and lemon juice; boil up and pour over it. Serve hot.



STEWED SWEETBREADS

* 1 pair Sweetbreads—4d. * * 1 pint Gravy * * Salt and Pepper * * 1/2 Onion—1/2d. * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1/2 oz. Flour * * 1 Carrot—1d. * * Total Cost—51/2 d. * * Time—One Hour. *

Put the sweetbreads in cold water, bring to the boil, strain away the water, scrape and clean them and remove the pieces of skin. Put the butter into a stewpan and flour the sweetbreads; dry very lightly and quickly, take them out. Slice up and fry the onion and carrot, stir in the flour and gravy, and bring to the boil. Lay in the sweetbreads and simmer very gently for one hour; take them up on a hot dish, season and flavour the gravy, remove the fat, boil up and pour round them. Serve hot. Sweetbreads are very nice served with tomato sauce.



ROULADES OF BEEF

* 1/2 lb. Fillet of Beef—9d. * * 1/2 lb. Cold Boiled Bacon—4d. * * 1 Egg—1d. * * 1 1/2 oz. Dripping * * 1/2 pint Gravy * * Pepper and Mustard * * 2 oz. Crumbs—1d. * * Total Cost—1s. 3d. * * Time—10 Minutes * Trim away the fat from the fillet and cut it into very small thin slices, and cut the bacon also into thin slices, but smaller. Spread the side of the beef with mustard and pepper, cover with bacon, and roll up as lightly as possible. When all are rolled beat up an egg, mix it with a spoonful of water, brush over the rolls; cover them with crumbs and thread on a small skewer. Put the dripping into a frying-pan, and when quite hot lay in the rolls and fry until a good colour. Place on a hot dish and slip out the skewers. Make the gravy hot, season and flavour, and pour boiling round the roulades. Should there be any brown sauce in the larder it is nicer than gravy.



VEAL SHAPE

* 2 lbs. Neck of Veal—8d. * * 1 Lemon * * Pepper and Salt—1/2d. * * 1/4 lb. Ham or Bacon—2d. * * 3 Eggs * * 1/2 pint Stock—3d. * * Total Cost—1s. 11/2 d. * * Time—Three Hours * Put the meat into a saucepan with the rind of the lemon cut very thinly, pour in the stock and simmer very gently for three hours; if the bacon is not cooked put it in and stew it for the last half-hour, then take up the meat and ham, cut it off the bones, and put these back in the saucepan and let them boil quickly without the lid. Boil the eggs hard and cut them in slices and arrange in a plain mould or dish, then lay in the veal and ham, and season with pepper and salt. Strain and flavour the gravy, add the lemon juice, and pour it over the meat. Set aside until quite cold, then turn out. This is a very nice breakfast or luncheon dish.



SWISS PATES

* Cold Roast Veal, Fowl, or Lamb—6d. * * Half a Stale Loaf—1 1/2d. * * Sweet Herbs or Parsley—1d. * * 1 Egg—1d. * * 1 gill Melted Butter * * Pepper and Salt * * Hot Fat—1d. * * Total Cost—101/2 d. * * Time—5 Minutes. * Mince the meat very finely, season with any forcemeat that may be left, or else some grated lemon peel, parsley and sweet herbs, pepper and salt. Make one gill of melted butter by recipe given elsewhere, stir in the meat and let it simmer for a few minutes; cut some slices of bread about an inch and a half thick, stamp them out with a round cutter about two inches across. Remove the centre for about half way through with a smaller cutter, brush them over with a raw egg beaten up, and cover them with fine crumbs. Fry in hot fat till a good colour, drain away the fat from them on kitchen paper. Fill these with the mince, garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve.



DEVILLED MEAT

* 1 teaspoonful Mustard * * 1 teaspoonful Worcester Sauce * * 2 teaspoonful Vinegar * * 1/2 oz. Butter * * 1 teaspoonful Oil * * 1 teaspoonful Lemon Juice * * 1/2 teaspoonful Curry Powder—2 1/2d. * * Mashed Potatoes * * 1/2 gill Gravy * * Slices of Cold Meat—1d. * * Total Cost—31/2 d. * * Time—10 Minutes * Put the mustard, made with vinegar instead of water, into a basin; add gradually the oil and butter, curry powder, sauce, vinegar, and lemon juice, and mix very thoroughly, then pour in the gravy. Cut some slices of underdone meat and lay them in a pie dish, pour over the mixture, cover with a plate, and stand in a hot oven for ten minutes; stir frequently. Serve with mashed potatoes.



JUGGED RABBITS

* 2 Rabbits—1s. * * 1/2 lb. Pickled Pork—3d. * * 1 Onion * * 1 fagot of Herbs—1/2d. * * 1 pint Gravy * * 1/2 oz. Flour * * 1 tablespoonful Red Currant Jelly—1d. * * Total Cost—1s. 41/2 d. * * Time—Two Hours * Wash and joint up the rabbits and cut the pork into slices; lay some of the pork over the bottom of a baking jar, and on this some joints of rabbit; continue in layers until all the meat is in, then put in the onion, sliced up, the fagot of herbs, and a few peppercorns. Cover down closely, stand in a moderate oven, and cook for two hours. Take up the meat and arrange nicely on a hot dish, strain the gravy into a saucepan, thicken with the flour, and when it boils stir in the jelly. Flavour to taste, pour it over the rabbits, and serve.



BREAKFAST DISH OF BEEF

* Slices of Cold Roast Beef (underdone)—4d. * * 1/2 gill Melted Butter Sauce—1/2d. * * 1/2 gill Gravy or Water * * Salt and Pepper * * 1 tablespoonful Walnut Ketchup or Vinegar—1/2d. * * 1 tablespoonful Red Currant Jelly—1d. * * Total Cost—6d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Cut some thin slices of beef and lay them in a saucepan or basin, mix the melted butter sauce, gravy, jelly, and ketchup together, and pour over them. Cover down closely and stand the saucepan in a larger one, half full of boiling water, and steam for half an hour. Put the meat into a dish and pour the sauce over it.



SOUBISE CUTLETS

* 1 lbs. Neck Chops—5d. * * 1 1/2 oz. Butter—1 1/2d. * * 1 oz. Flour * * 3 Onions * * 1 gill Milk * * Pepper, Salt, and Lemon Juice—1d. * * Total Cost—71/2 d. * * Time—20 Minutes * Trim off the cutlets, lay them in a tin dish, cover with buttered paper, and bake in the oven from fifteen to twenty minutes, according to thickness, turning once while cooking. Peel the onions, put them into cold water, bring to the boil, throw away the water. Put them on again in cold water and boil until rather soft, then strain all the water away, put in the butter, let it get quite hot, then cover down and finish cooking the onions in this, but do not brown them. Stir in the flour and pour over the milk, stir until it boils, let it boil two or three minutes, then rub through a sieve; season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Dish the cutlets in a circle, pour away some of the fat, and rinse the tin with a spoonful of gravy. Pour this round the dish and put the soubise sauce in the centre. Serve hot.



ROMAN RAGOUT

* 1 1/2 lbs. Gravy Beef—4d. * * 2 oz. Fat Bacon—1 1/2d. * * 2 oz. Onion—1/2d. * * 1 pint Milk * * 3 Tomatoes * * 1/2 pint Gravy * * 1 1/2 oz. Semolina * * 1 oz. Dry Cheese—6d. * * Total Cost—1s. * * Time—Three Hours * Mince the onion and bacon very fine indeed, put them into a saucepan and fry a good brown, then add half the gravy, and stir until a sort of half glaze. Rub the tomatoes through a sieve and stir them in with the rest of the gravy, bring to the boil. Cut the meat into strips and put it in with a little salt and pepper, and simmer very gently for about three hours. While it is cooking put the milk on to boil, mix the semolina with a little cold milk, and stir it in; cook it until the spoon will come out quite clean, then turn it on to a dish till cold. Cut it into squares and lay some in a deep dish, sprinkle with grated cheese, then more semolina and more cheese. Pour over this some of the gravy in which the meat is cooking, and put it in the oven to get hot. Dish up the meat and pour the sauce over it. Send the two dishes to table together, quite hot.



MUTTON OR HAM BONE AND POTATOES

* 1 Bone of Mutton or Ham * * 1 Onion * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1 oz. Flour * * 1/2 pint Water or Stock—1 1/2d. * * 1 lb. Potatoes—1d. * * Total Cost—21/2 d. * * Time—One Hour. * Put the butter into a saucepan, and when it is hot put in the flour; mix together smoothly, pour in the water of stock, and stir until it boils. Joint up a mutton or ham bone and lay it in; if it is mutton, add a little salt. Bring it to the boil, put in the onion whole stuck with two cloves, and simmer for half an hour or longer; then peel the potatoes, cut them in half and put them in, and cook until they are soft. Take out the bones and place on a dish, put the potatoes round, and pour the sauce over. This is a very homely dish, but a very savoury and economical one. A little meat goes a long way, and it is nourishing, too, as all the goodness of the bone and potatoes is in the stew.



VEAL IN WHITE SAUCE

* 2 lbs. Neck of Veal—10d. * * 2 oz. Butter—1 1/2d. * * 1 oz. Flour * * Salt and Pepper * * 1 Egg—1d. * * 3/4 pint Milk—2d. * * 1 Onion * * 1 fagot of Herbs * * 1 dozen Peppercorns * * Lemon Juice—1d. * * Total Cost—1s. 31/2 d. * * Time—One Hour and a Half. * Put the butter into a saucepan, and when it is melted stir in the flour and cook well, but do not brown. Boil the onion, herbs, and peppercorns in the milk, strain them out, pour the milk over the butter and flour, and stir till it boils. Cut the meat into cutlets, lay them in and simmer very gently till the meat is tender, then take it up and arrange nicely on a dish. Beat up an egg with a drop or two of lemon juice and a spoonful of gravy or milk. Pour into the sauce in which the meat was cooked, and stir briskly over the fire until it thickens; strain over the meat, and serve.

A few very small fat rashers of bacon rolled up and fried are a great improvement to this dish.



CHAPTER XX.



FIFTY RECIPES FOR VEGETABLES

TOMATOES STUFFED

* 6 Tomatoes—2d. * * 1/4 lb. Veal Forcemeat—2d. * * 1 oz. Cheese—1 1/2d. * * 6 pieces Fried Bread—1/2d. * * Total Cost—6d. * * Time—10 Minutes * Choose tomatoes of a good colour, and all about the same size; scoop out the centre. Grate up the cheese and mix it with the forcemeat, put this into the tomatoes; place on a buttered tin, and bake in the oven for ten minutes. Put each tomato on to a round of fried bread, and serve.



POTATOES IN WHITE SAUCE

* 1 lb. Potatoes—1d. * * 1/2 pint White Sauce * * Salt and Pepper—2d. * * Total Cost—3d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Peel and slice the potatoes, put them in water seasoned with salt, and boil for five minutes; strain off the water, make some white sauce by directions given elsewhere. Lay in the potatoes and simmer gently till they are soft, but not broken; place them on a hot dish and pour the sauce over.



TO BOIL POTATOES

To boil potatoes properly much care and judgement are required. They should be peeled thinly, and well washed in cold water, but not soaked; put them into a saucepan and kept for this vegetable only. Just cover them with cold water seasoned with salt, and bring to a boil. Then simmer very gently for about twenty minutes; test them with a fork, and if soft, strain off the water and toss them in a saucepan over the fire until they are dry. Some potatoes will not bear boiling as long as this, but begin to break soon after they boil up. When this is the case, pour off nearly all the water, leaving only one inch at the bottom of the saucepan. Cook the potatoes slowly in this and then strain off and dry. Potatoes that are very troublesome to boil often steam well; they must be allowed from an hour to one hour and a half, according to the quantity of water over which they are cooking.



TO BOIL NEW POTATOES

New potatoes may be either scraped while raw, or peeled after boiling; they are a better flavour if cooked in their skins. In either case they should be well washed in cold water, plunged into boiling water seasoned with salt and a sprig of mint, and boiled quickly until a fork will go through easily; then strain off the water, dry, and serve.



TO BOIL CABBAGE

The outer leaves of the cabbage should be removed, then cut it into quarters and cut out the salt; wash it well in salt and water, and leave in the water for half-an-hour. Then put it into a colander and shake all the water from it. Place on the fire a large saucepan of water, and when it boils, put in two teaspoonsful of salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. Put in the cabbage and cover down till it boils up; then remove the lid and boil very quickly, pressing it down into the water from time to time. It will be done in from fifteen to twenty minutes; try it with a fork, and if soft turn into a colander, and very carefully press all the water from it. Slip into a vegetable dish and cut into neat pieces.



TO BOIL GREEN PEAS

Shell the peas and wash them well; just cover them with cold water, season it with a little salt, sugar, and mint. Bring quickly to the boil and cook for about twenty minutes. When soft, but not broken, strain off the water and put them into a vegetable dish.



TO BOIL FRENCH BEANS

Slice up the beans and wash in cold water, put them into plenty of boiling water, seasoned with salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda; boil quickly without the lid for about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour. When soft, strain off and shake the water out thoroughly; put into a hot dish, and serve plainly or with melted butter.



TO BOIL CAULIFLOWERS

Soak the cauliflowers in plenty of salt and water, with the flower downwards, then cook, in plenty of boiling water seasoned with salt, putting the flower to the bottom of the saucepan. Keep uncovered all the time of cooking; take up with a slice and strain in a colander. Turn carefully into a vegetable dish, and serve with or without sauce.



VEGETABLE MARROW

* 1 Marrow—3d. * * 1/2 pint White Sauce * * Salt—2d. * * Total Cost—5d. * * Time—15 Minutes * Peel the marrow, take out the seeds, and cut it into small pieces; put into boiling water nicely seasoned with salt, and boil gently for about fifteen minutes. Take up with a slice and strain in a colander, place in a hot dish, and pour over the sauce.



BEETROOT IN SAUCE

* 3 Beetroots—2d. * * 1/2 pint White Sauce—2d. * * Total Cost—4d. * * Time—Two Hours * Wash the beetroots, but do not cut them; put them in cold water, and boil till they feel soft if pressed—the time depends upon the size; then take them up, peel and slice them. Make the sauce by directions given elsewhere. Put in the beetroot and simmer for about half an hour; dish the beets and pour the sauce over. It should be of a bright red colour.



STEWED CABBAGE

* 1 Cabbage—3d. * * Salt and Pepper * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * Total Cost—4d. * * Time—25 Minutes * Boil the cabbage as directed, and squeeze very dry; melt the butter in a saucepan, season with pepper, salt, and a drop or two of lemon juice. Put in the cabbage and cook in the butter for ten minutes, stirring frequently; arrange neatly in a hot dish, and serve.



BAKED TOMATOES

* 1 doz. Tomatoes—4d. * * 1 oz. Bread Crumbs—1/2d. * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1/2 teaspoonful Mustard—1d. * * Total Cost—51/2 d. * * Time—15 Minutes * Slice up the tomatoes, spread with a very little made mustard. Season some brown bread crumbs with pepper and salt, and sprinkle the slices well. Put into a buttered dish and bake till soft. Serve hot.



CURRIED TOMATOES

* 1 doz. Tomatoes—4d. * * 1 1/2 oz. Butter—1d. * * 1 gill Milk—1d. * * 1/2 oz. Flour * * 1/2 lb. Rice—1 1/2d. * * 1 Apple * * 1 Onion * * 1 dessertspoonful Curry Powder * * Salt—2d. * * Total Cost—91/2 d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Mince the onion and apple finely, and fry in the batter till a good colour; sprinkle over it the curry power and flour, and mix well. Pour in the milk and stir until it boils; slice the tomatoes and put them in and simmer very gently for half an hour. Season with salt, dish carefully and serve either in a border of rice, or with rice moulds on a separate dish.



CURRIED VEGETABLES

Take any vegetables in season, such as potatoes, peas, carrots, beans, and cauliflowers, very young vegetables are the best, and if there are any cold ones in the larder they will do as well as fresh. Slice up the potatoes and branch the cauliflowers, and, if they are not been boiled before, boil them in water seasoned with a little salt and sugar, for ten minutes, and strain off the water. Put one ounce or more of butter into a saucepan according to the quantity of vegetables, and when hot stir in half an ounce of flour, and the same of curry powder. Pour in half a pint of milk and stir till it boils. Then put in the vegetables and simmer very gently for about half an hour. They should not be broken, but quite soft, and all the liquor absorbed. Pile in a hot dish and serve with boiled rice.



BEETROOT AND ONION STEW

* 3 Beetroots—2d. * * 3 Onions—1d. * * 1 1/2 oz. Butter * * 1 teaspoonful Sugar * * 1/2 teaspoonful Salt—1 1/2d. * * 1/2 pint Milk—1d. * * 1 tablespoonful Vinegar * * 1/2 oz. Flour—1/2d. * * Mashed Potatoes—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—71/2 d. * * Time—One Hour * Boil the beetroots by directions given and slice them up; peel and slice up the onions and fry in the butter, but do not let them brown. Stir in the flour and the milk and bring to the boil, and when it has boiled a few minutes stir in gradually the vinegar, salt, and sugar, then the beetroot. Simmer slowly for one hour; make a border of the potatoes on a hot dish, garnish with sprigs of parsley. Put the beetroot and onion in the centre, and serve hot.



SAUTE OF TURNIPS

* 6 Turnips—1 1/2d. * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1 gill Stock * * 1 teaspoonful Sugar * * 1 teaspoonful Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—21/2 d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Peel the turnips and cut them into pieces like the quarter of an orange; put them into a small stewpan with the butter, sprinkle over them the sugar and salt, and stir about till quite brown. Pour on the stock, bring it to the boil, and simmer till soft but not broken. Dish the turnips, season the gravy with salt and a few drops of lemon juice, pour over, and serve.



CARROTS IN BUTTER

* 4 Carrots—1 1/2d. * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1 teaspoonful Parsley * * Pinch of Salt and Sugar—1d. * * Total Cost—21/2 d. * * Time—One Hour * Scrape the carrots and slice them up, put them into boiling water seasoned with salt and sugar, and boil for ten minutes. Strain off the water. Put the butter into a small saucepan, and when it is hot stir in the parsley and a few drops of lemon juice. Toss the carrots in this until they are thoroughly hot, then cover down and cook slowly till soft. Dish and pour over the butter in which they were cooked.



PARSNIPS AND PARSLEY BUTTER

* 4 or 5 Parsnips * * 1/2 oz. Flour * * 1 teaspoonful Parsley—2d. * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1 gill Milk * * Pepper and Salt—2d. * * Total Cost—4d. * * Time—One Hour * Scrape and cut up the parsnips (or cold ones will do). If raw, boil them in water seasoned with salt for three-quarters of an hour. Make the butter, flour, and milk into a sauce by directions given, and season nicely. Stir in the parsley, put in the parsnips, bring to the boil and simmer for ten minutes. Arrange them on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve.



PARSNIPS FRIED

Cold boiled parsnips make a delicious breakfast dish if sliced up and fried either in bacon fat, dripping, or butter. Pile high on a dish and serve very hot.



POTATO BALLS

* 1 lb. Cold Boiled Potatoes * * Bread Crumbs—1d. * * 2 Eggs * * 1 oz. Butter * * Hot Fat—3d. * * Total Cost—4d. * * Time—5 Minutes. * Rub the potatoes through a sieve or mash them smoothly. Put the butter into a saucepan, and, when melted, season with pepper and salt; put in the potatoes and turn them about till hot through. Drop in the egg and mix into a paste, turn on to a plate to cool, and roll into balls. Beat up an egg and brush over the balls, cover well with crumbs, and fry in hot fat. The yolks of eggs will do for this dish if the whites are wanted for other purposes.



HARICOT BEANS

Soak the haricots over night, if possible; if not, at least for two or three hours. Put them on in plenty of cold water seasoned with salt and an onion, and boil them steadily for three hours. Strain the water off, put them into a vegetable dish, and pour over them some parsley butter sauce. Haricot beans are the most nutritious of all pulse foods, and are a particularly good food for people who work in the open air. They are very nice eaten alone or served with meat. They make an exceedingly delicious dish if boiled for two hours and then put into a nice brown gravy and simmered for about an hour. Serve in the gravy with roast mutton.



POTATO AND TOMATO PIE

* 6 Tomatoes—2d. * * 6 Potatoes—1d. * * 1/2 lb. Short Pastry * * Dripping * * 1 teaspoonful Parsley * * 1 1/2 teaspoonful Sweet Herbs * * Salt and Pepper—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—4 1/2 d. * * Time—One Hour * Peel and slice up the potatoes and tomatoes; lay them alternatively in a pie dish and sprinkle over them some parsley, herbs, salt, and pepper. When the dish is full, cover with a short pastry and bake for one hour; serve hot.



CAULIFLOWERS AND TOMATOES

* 2 Cauliflowers—4d. * * 1/2 pint Tomato Sauce—1d. * * Total Cost—5d. * * Time—20 Minutes * Boil the cauliflowers and make the sauce by directions given elsewhere. Dish the cauliflowers carefully and pour over them the sauce, leaving just the centre of the flowers clear. Put into the oven for five minutes, and serve.



STEWED CELERY

* 3 heads of Celery—3d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * 1/2 gill Milk * * 1 oz. Flour * * Pepper and Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—5d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Take only the white and best part of celery for this dish, pull it to pieces, wash well in salt and water, and tie in a bundle. Put it into boiling water seasoned with salt, and boil for about half an hour, or until the fork will go through easily. Take half a pint of the water in which it was boiled and mix it with the milk; make a sauce with this and the butter and flour by directions given for sauces. Dish the celery and pour the sauce over. This is an excellent food for anyone suffering from, or subject to, rheumatism or gout. Celery is also very nice stewed in broth or gravy and thickened with a little butter and flour.



LETTUCE STEWED

* 4 Lettuces—3d. * * 1 oz. Butter * * Nutmeg * * Pepper and Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—4d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Wash the lettuces very thoroughly and lay them in salt and water for half an hour. Plunge them into plenty of boiling water seasoned with salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. Boil quickly without the lid from fifteen to twenty minutes, take up and squeeze all the water from them. Chop them up and put into a saucepan with some butter, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a few drops of lemon juice; stir them about and cook for about five minutes. Turn into a hot dish and serve.



BAKED ONIONS

* 2 lbs. Onion—2d. * * 1/2 pint Thick Gravy * * 1/2 pint Water * * Pepper and Salt—1d. * * Total Cost—3d. * * Time—One Hour. * Peel the onions, put them on in cold water, and bring to the boil. Strain the water off, butter a baking dish, put in the onions, pour in the water, cover with a plate, and stand in a moderate oven. Stew until soft, place in a hot dish and pour over them, either a nice gravy thickened with a little butter and flour, or some plain melted butter. Serve hot.



CASSOLETTES OF VEGETABLES

Peel some turnips and scoop out the centre; boil them in salt and water till soft, but quite whole. If there are any cold vegetables in the larder, such as beans, peas, carrots, and parsnips, make them hot; if not, cut some into small pieces and boil separately. Stir them into any cold sauce that may be left, or toss them in a little butter. Fill the turnip cups with these, arranging them on a dish, alternately red and green. Serve hot.



VEGETABLE MARROW STUFFED

* 1 Vegetable Marrow—3d. * * 1/4 lb. Veal Forcemeat—2d. * * 1/2 pint Melted Butter Sauce—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—61/2 d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Peel a marrow and cut it in half length-ways. Prepare some veal forcemeat by recipe given elsewhere, and make it hot in a saucepan. Remove the seeds from the marrow and put in their place the forcemeat; put the pieces together and bind round with tape. Have ready a fish kettle full of boiling water seasoned with salt; lay the marrow on the drainer and plunge into the water; boil gently for about twenty-five minutes. Slip the marrow carefully into a dish and pour over some melted butter sauce.



LYONNAISE POTATOES

* 1 lb. Potatoes—1d. * * 1/2 pint Onion Sauce—2d. * * Total Cost—3d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Peel and boil the potatoes in the usual way, slice them up and put them into a hot dish; make some rather thin onion sauce by directions given elsewhere, season with a few drops of lemon juice, and pour over the potatoes; serve hot.



POTATOES SAUTE

Cut up any cold potatoes that may be left into strips, not too thin, put some dripping into a frying pan, and when very hot put in the potatoes and fry them a pale colour. Place them on a hot dish; melt one ounce of butter in a saucepan; season with lemon juice, parsley, pepper, and salt. Pour this over the potatoes, and serve very hot.



COLCANNON

Take any remains of cold boiled cabbage and potatoes, and cut them into small pieces, season with pepper and salt. Put a small piece of butter into a frying pan; put in the vegetables and fry them until they are thoroughly hot through and well mixed. Turn them on to a hot dish, make into a neat pile, and serve.



BAKED VEGETABLE MARROW

* 1 Vegetable Marrow * * 1/2 pint Gravy * * 1 oz. Dripping * * Total Cost—3d. * * Time—One Hour * Peel the marrow and cut into pieces, remove the seeds, put on to a baking sheet with some beef dripping, and bake till soft and rather brown. Thicken a little gravy with some flour, and season and flavour it nicely; dish the marrow and pour this sauce over.



STEWED LEEKS

* 1 bunch Leeks * * 1/2 pint Stock—2d. * * Pepper and Salt * * 1/2 oz. Butter * * 1/2 oz. Flour * * Lemon Juice—1/2d. * * Total Cost—2 1/2 d. * * Time—One Hour * Cut off the roots and green tops of the leeks and wash well. Put them into a saucepan with the stock and stew very gently till soft; take them up and put on to a hot dish. Put the butter into a saucepan, and when it is dissolved stir in the flour, mix well, and strain in the stock. Stir until it boils. Season with some pepper, salt, and a few drops of lemon juice. Pour over the leeks, and serve.



POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL

* Cold Potatoes—1d. * * 1/2 pint Maitre d'Hotel Sauce—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—21/2 d. * * Time—5 Minutes * Make the sauce by recipe given elsewhere, flavour nicely with lemon juice, pepper, and salt. Slice up the potatoes, and put them into it; simmer for five minutes, dish, and serve.



LENTILS, TO BOIL

Wash the lentils well in cold water, cover them with cold water seasoned with salt, and boil for one hour and a half. Strain all the water off, put them into a hot dish with about half an ounce of butter, and serve.



CURRIED LENTILS

Any cold lentils left make a very nice breakfast dish if they are curried. If there should be any curry gravy left,



put them into that and simmer for half an hour; serve with boiled rice. If there is no curry sauce, make a little by a recipe given elsewhere.



STEWED BEETROOT AND MASHED POTATOES

* 1 bunch Beetroot—2d. * * 2 Onions—1/2d. * * 1 oz. Flour * * Mashed Potatoes * * Pepper and Salt * * 1 1/2 oz. Butter * * 1/2 pint Milk * * 1 dessertspoonful Vinegar—3d. * * Total Cost—51/2 d. * * Time—Half an Hour. * Peel and cut the onions into dice, put them into a frying-pan with the butter, and fry, but do not let them brown; sprinkle in the flour, pour in the milk, and stir until it boils. Season with salt, pepper, and vinegar. Boil the beetroot carefully, and when cold, peel and slice up. Put it into the sauce and simmer for half an hour. Make the mashed potatoes into a border on a hot dish, and put the beetroot in the centre; boil up the sauce, pour it over, and serve.



CAULIFLOWERS AU GRATIN

* 1 Cauliflower—4d. * * 1/2 pint White Sauce—1 1/2d. * * 2 oz. Dry Grated Cheese * * Pepper and Salt—1/2d. * * Total Cost—6d. * * Time—15 Minutes. * Boil the cauliflower and make the sauce by directions already given. Put the cauliflower into a dish in which it can be served, put half the cheese into the white sauce, season with pepper and salt, make it hot and pour over. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese on the top, and put into the oven till quite brown; it is then ready to serve.



NEW POTATOES SAUTE

* 1 lb. New Potatoes—1d. * * 1 oz. Butter—1d. * * Pepper and Salt * * 1 teaspoonful Parsley * * Lemon Juice—1/2d. * * Total Cost—21/2 d. * * Time—Half an Hour. * Wash the potatoes and put them into boiling salt and water, and boil for ten minutes. Take up, peel and cut them in half. Melt the butter in a saucepan, and when quite hot, put in the potatoes and toss over the fire. Sprinkle over the parsley, pepper, salt, and a few drops of lemon juice; cover down and cook gently till the potatoes are soft but not broken. Put into a hot dish and serve.



POTATO PUFF

* 1/2 lb. Cold Potatoes—1d. * * 2 Eggs—2d. * * 1 oz. Butter * * 1 gill Milk—1d. * * Total Cost—4d. * * Time—Half an Hour * Mash the potatoes, beat the butter to a cream, then beat in the eggs, pepper, salt, and milk. Stir up the potatoes, pour into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for about half an hour. Serve hot.



POTATOES STUFFED

* 6 Large Potatoes—2d. * * 1/4 lb. Cold Meat—1/2d. * * 1/2 gill Gravy or Sauce * * Pepper, Salt, and Parsley—1/2d. * * Total Cost—3d. * * Time—One Hour and a Half. * Wash and scrub the potatoes, and bake them in the oven till quite done. Cut them in half so that they will stand nicely. Scoop out the inside, and mix the potato meal with some butter, pepper, and salt. Make a little savoury meat by directions given for mince, and nearly fill the potato skins with this. Put some of the potato on top, making it look as rough and rocky as possible. Stand in the oven till quite hot, and serve.



HARICOT BEANS AND BACON

* 1 pint Haricot Beans—2d. * * 1 teaspoonful Parsley * * 1/2 lb. Bacon * * Pepper and Salt—5d. * * Total Cost—7d. * * Time—Two Hours. * Soak the haricot beans and boil them by directions already given. Rub them through a wire sieve. The bacon should be in thin rashers and very fat. Cook it carefully in a small clean frying-pan, and as the fat runs from it, pour it on the beans. Mash them up with this and a little pepper and salt, and put them into a hot dish. Sprinkle over with parsley and lay the bacon rashers on top. Serve hot.



ARTICHOKES, TO BOIL

* 2 lbs. Artichokes—4d. * * 1/2 pint White Sauce—1 1/2d. * * Total Cost—51/2 d. * * Time—One Hour * Wash and peel the artichokes and put them into some water; add a teaspoonful of vinegar and leave them for half an hour. Drain the water all away and put them into a saucepan, cover with cold water; add one gill of milk and some salt. Bring to the boil and cook slowly for about an hour. Take half a pint of the liquor in which the artichokes were boiled, and make a sauce; dish them and pour this over.