p-books.com
The Art of Perfumery - And Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants
by G. W. Septimus Piesse
Previous Part     1  2  3  4  5
Home - Random Browse

The essential oil[L] most abundant in the Exhibition was the pine-apple oil, which, as you well know, is nothing else but the butyrate of ethyloxide. Even in this combination, like in the former, the pleasant flavor or scent is only attained by diluting the ether with alcohol. The butyric ether which is employed in Germany to flavor bad rum, is employed in England to flavor an acidulated drink called pine-apple ale. For this purpose they generally do not employ pure butyric acid, but a product obtained by saponification of butter, and subsequent distillation of the soap with concentrated sulphuric acid and alcohol; which product contains, besides the butyric ether, other ethers, but nevertheless can be used for flavoring spirits. The sample I analyzed was purer, and appeared to have been made with pure butyric ether.

Decomposed with potash and changed into silver salt, it gave

0.4404 gram. of silver salt = 0.2437 gram. of silver.

The per centage of silver in the butyrate of silver is according to

Theory, 55.38 Experiment, 55.33

Both English and French exhibitors have also sent samples of cognac-oil and grape-oil, which are employed to flavor the common sorts of brandy. As these samples were very small, I was prevented from making an accurate analysis. However, I am certain that the grape-oil is a combination of amyl, diluted with much alcohol; since, when acted upon with concentrated sulphuric acid, and the oil freed from alcohol by washing it with water, it gave amylsulphuric acid, which was identified by the analysis of the salt of barytes.

1.2690 gram. of amylsulphate of barytes gave 0.5825 gram. of sulphate of barytes. This corresponds to 45.82 per cent. of sulphate of barytes.

Amylsulphate of barytes, crystallized with two equivalents of water, contains, according to the analysis of Cahours and Kekule, 45.95 per cent. of sulphate of barytes. It is curious to find here a body, which, on account of its noxious smell, is removed with great care from spirituous liquors, to be applied under a different form for the purpose of imparting to them a pleasant flavor.

I must needs here also mention the artificial oil of bitter almonds. When Mitscherlich, in the year 1834, discovered the nitrobenzol, he would not have dreamed that this product would be manufactured for the purpose of perfumery, and, after twenty years, appear in fine labelled samples at the London Exhibition. It is true that, even at the time of the discovery of nitrobenzol, he pointed out the striking similarity of its smell to that of the oil of bitter almonds. However, at that time, the only known sources for obtaining this body were the compressed gases and the distillation of benzoic acid, consequently the enormity of its price banished any idea of employing benzol as a substitute for oil of bitter almonds. However, in the year 1845, I succeeded by means of the anilin-reaction in ascertaining the existence of benzol in common coal-tar oil; and, in the year 1849, C.B. Mansfield proved, by careful experiments, that benzol can be won without difficulty in great quantity from coal-tar oil. In his essay, which contains many interesting details about the practical use of benzol, he speaks likewise of the possibility of soon obtaining the sweet-scented nitrobenzol in great quantity. The Exhibition has proved that his observation has not been left unnoticed by the perfumers. Among French perfumeries we have found, under the name of artificial oil of bitter almonds, and under the still more poetical name of "essence de mirbane," several samples of essential oils, which are no more nor less than nitrobenzol. I was not able to obtain accurate details about the extent of this branch of manufacture, which seems to be of some importance. In London, this article is manufactured with success. The apparatus employed is that of Mansfield, which is very simple. It consists of a large glass worm, the upper extremity of which divides in two branches or tubes, which are provided with funnels. Through one of these funnels passes a stream of concentrated nitric acid; the other is destined as a receiver of benzol, which, for this purpose, requires not to be quite pure; at the angle from where the two tubes branch out, the two bodies meet together, and instantly the chemical combination takes place, which cools sufficiently by passing through the glass worm. The product is afterwards washed with water, and some diluted solution of carbonate of soda; it is then ready for use. Notwithstanding the great physical similarity between nitrobenzol and oil of bitter almonds, there is yet a slight difference in smell which can be detected by an experienced nose.[M] However, nitrobenzol is very useful in scenting soap, and might be employed with great advantage by confectioners and cooks, particularly on account of its safety, being entirely free from prussic acid.

There were, besides the above, several other artificial oils; they all, however, were more or less complicated, and in so small quantities, that it was impossible to ascertain their exact nature, and it was doubtful whether they had the same origin as the former.

The application of organic chemistry to perfumery is quite new; it is probable that the study of all the ethers or ethereal combinations already known, and of those which the ingenuity of the chemist is daily discovering, will enlarge the sphere of their practical applications. The capryl-ethers lately discovered by Bouis are remarkable for their aromatic smells (the acetate of capryloxide is possessed of the most intense and pleasant smell), and they promise a large harvest to the manufacturers of perfumes.—Annalen der Chemie.

* * * * *

CORRESPONDENCE FROM THE "JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS."[N]

CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY.

SIR,

When such periodicals as "Household Words" and the "Family Herald" contain scientific matters, treated in a manner to popularize science, all real lovers of philosophy must feel gratified; a little fiction, a little metaphor, is expected, and is accepted with the good intention with which it is given, in such popular prints; but when the "Journal of the Society of Arts" reprints quotations from such sources, without modifying or correcting their expressions, it conveys to its readers a tissue of fiction rather too flimsy to bear a truthful analysis.[O]

In the article on Chemistry and Perfumery, in No. 47, you quote that "some of the most delicate perfumes are now made by chemical artifice, and not, as of old, by distilling them from flowers." Now, sir, this statement conveys to the public a very erroneous idea; because the substances afterwards spoken of are named essences of fruit, and not essences of flowers, and the essences of fruits named in your article never are, and never can be, used in perfumery. This assertion is based on practical experience. The artificial essences of fruits are ethers: when poured upon a handkerchief, and held up to the nose, they act, as is well known, like chloroform. Dare a perfumer sell a bottle of such a preparation to an "unprotected female?"

Again, you quote that "the drainings of cow-houses are the main source to which the manufacturer applies for the production of his most delicate and admired perfumes."

Shade of Munchausen! must I refute this by calling your attention to the fact that in the south of France more than 80,000 persons are employed, directly and indirectly, in the cultivation of flowers, and in the extraction of their odors for the use of perfumers? that Italy cultivates flowers for the same purpose to an extent employing land as extensive as the whole of some English counties? that tracts of flower-farms exist in the Balkan, in Turkey, more extensive than the whole of Yorkshire? Our own flower-farms at Mitcham, in Surrey, need not be mentioned in comparison, although important. These, sir, are the main sources of perfumes. There are other sources at Thibet, Tonquin, and in the West Indies; but enough has been said, I hope, to refute the cow-house story. This story is founded on the fact that Benzoic acid can be obtained from the draining of stables, and that Benzoic acid has rather a pleasant odor. Some of the largest wholesale perfumers use five or six pounds of gum benzoin per annum, but none use the benzoic acid. The lozenge-makers consume the most of this article when prepared for commercial purposes; as also the fruit essences. Those of your readers interested in what really is used in perfumery, are referred to the last six numbers of the "Annals of Pharmacy and Practical Chemistry," article "Perfumery."

Your obedient servant, SEPTIMUS PIESSE.

CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY.[P]

SIR,

The discussion about chemistry and perfumery, in reality amounts to this: Mr. Septimus Piesse confines the term "perfumery" to such things as Eau de Cologne, &c.; perfumed soaps, groceries, &c., he does not appear to class as "perfumery." Now the artificial scents are as yet chiefly used for the latter substances, which in common language, and, I should say, in a perfumer's nomenclature also, would be included in perfumery. The authority for cows' urine being used for perfumery is to be found in a little French work called, I believe, "La Chimie de l'Odorat" in which a full description is given of the collection of fresh urine and its application to this purpose. I need scarcely say, that it is the benzoic acid of the urine which is the odoriferous principle.

Your obedient servant, A PERFUMER.

[When benzoic acid is prepared by any of the wet processes, it is free from the fragrant volatile oil which accompanies it when prepared by sublimation from the resin, and to which oil the acid of commerce owes its peculiar odor. This fact completely nullifies the above assertion.—SEPTIMUS PIESSE.]

CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY.[Q]

Sir,

If the author of the Letter on Chemistry and Perfumery, published in No. 50 of your Journal, and intended as a reply to mine—though none was needed—which appeared in No. 49, really be a perfumer, as his signature implies, he would know that I could not, though ever so inclined, "confine the term perfumery" to various odoriferous substances, and exclude scented soaps; because he would be aware that one-third of the returns of every manufacturing perfumer is derived from perfumed soap. I do however emphatically exclude from the term perfumery, "groceries, &c.," the et caetera meaning, I presume, "confectionery," because perfumery has to do with one of the senses, SMELLING, while groceries, &c., are distinguishable by another, TASTE; and had not our physical faculties clearly made the distinction, commerce and manufactures would have defined them: I therefore repeat, that the artificial essences of fruits are not used in perfumery, as stated in No. 47, from the quoted authorities. If any man can deny this assertion, let him now do so, "or forever after hold his peace," at least upon this subject. The "Journal of the Society of Arts" is not a medium of mere controversy. If a statement be made in error, let truth correct it, which, if gain-sayed, it should be done, not under the veil of an anonymous correspondent, but with a name to support the assertion. Science has to deal with tangible facts and figures, to the political alone belongs the anonymous ink-spiller.

I am, sir, yours faithfully, SEPTIMUS PIESSE. 42 Chapel Street, Edgware Road.

[If the word flavor had been used by the various authors who have written upon this subject, in place of the word perfume, the dissemination of an erroneous idea would have been prevented: the word perfume, applied to pear-oil, pine-apple oil, &c., implies, and the general tenor of the remarks of the writers leads the reader to infer, that these substances are used by perfumers, who not only do not, but cannot use them in their trade.

But for flavoring nectar, lozenges, sweetmeats, &c., these ethers, or oils as the writers term them, are extensively used, and quite in accordance with assertions of Hoffman, Playfair, Fehling, and Bastick. However, the glorious achievements of modern chemistry have not lost anything by this misapplication of a trade term.—SEPTIMUS PIESSE.]

* * * * *

OTTOS FROM PLANTS.

QUANTITIES OF OTTOS, OTHERWISE ESSENTIAL OILS, YIELDED BY VARIOUS PLANTS.

Pounds Of otto. Orange-peel, 10 yield about 1 oz. Dry marjoram herb, 20 " 3 oz. Fresh " " 100 " 3 oz. " Peppermint, 100 " 3 to 4 oz. Dry " 25 " 3 to 4 oz. " Origanum, 25 " 2 to 3 oz. " Thyme, 20 " 1 to 1-1/2 oz. " Calamus, 25 " 3 to 4 oz. Anise-seed, 25 " 9 to 12 oz. Caraway, 25 " 16 oz. Cloves, 1 " 2-1/2 oz. Cinnamon, 25 " 3 oz. Cassia, 25 " 3 oz. Cedar-wood, 28 " 4 oz. Mace, 2 " 3 oz. Nutmegs, 2 " 3 to 4 oz. Fresh balm herb, 60 " 1 to 1-1/2 oz. Cake of bitter almond, 14 " 1 oz. Sweet flag root, 112 " 16 oz. Geranium leaves, 112 " 2 oz. Lavender flowers, 112 " 30 to 32 oz. Myrtle leaves, 112 " 5 oz. Patchouly herb, 112 " 28 oz. Province rose blossom, 112 " 1-1/2 to 2 drachms. Rhodium-wood, 112 " 3 to 4 oz. Santal-wood, 112 " 30 oz. Vitivert or kus-kus-root, 112 " 15 oz.

* * * * *

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

FRENCH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES COMPARED WITH ENGLISH.

___________ Imperial Troy Kilo- Lbs. Litres. Gallons. Grammes. Grains. grammes. Avoird. 1, 0.22010 1, 15.434 1, 2.20486 2, 0.44019 2, 30.868 2, 4.40971 3, 0.66029 3, 46.302 3, 6.61457 4, 0.88039 4, 61.736 4, 8.81943 5, 1.10048 5, 77.170 5, 11.02429 6, 1.32058 6, 92.604 6, 13.22914 7, 1.54068 7, 108.038 7, 15.43400 8, 1.76077 8, 123.472 8, 17.63886 9, 1.98087 9, 138.906 9, 19.84371 -

ENGLISH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES COMPARED WITH FRENCH.

___________ Imp. Troy Lbs. Kilo- Gallons. Litres. Grains. Grammes. Avoird. grammes. 1, 4.54346 1, 0.06479 1, 0.45354 2, 9.08692 2, 0.12958 2, 0.90709 3, 13.63038 3, 0.19438 3, 1.36063 4, 18.17384 4, 0.25917 4, 1.81418 5, 22.71730 5, 0.32396 5, 2.26772 6, 27.26076 6, 0.38875 6, 2.72126 7, 31.80422 7, 0.45354 7, 3.17481 8, 36.34768 8, 0.51834 8, 3.62835 9, 40.89114 9, 0.58313 9, 4.08190 -

FOOTNOTES:

[A] Brother of the Author.

[B] See Appendix, "Benzoic Acid."

[C] See "Incense."

[D] The duty on eau de Cologne is now, according to the last tariff, 8d. per flacon of 4 oz., or 20s. per gallon.

[E] Simple syrup consists of 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, boiled for a minute in one pint, imperial, of distilled water.

[F] The imperial measure only is recognized among perfumers.

[G] Annals of Pharmacy, vol. ii, pp. 168, 169.

[H] The deposit is nearly insoluble in water, is acid and astringent to the taste, gives an acid reaction with litmus. Spirit of wine dissolves out a small portion, which, on evaporation, leaves a thick oleo-resinous substance, having a rancid smell. Ether leaves a pleasant-smelling resin, somewhat resembling camphor. The remainder is nearly insoluble in liq. ammoniae, liq. potassae, more soluble in nitric acid, and well deserves to be further examined.

[I] Qy. Confectionery?

[J] Qy. Confectioners?

[K] Confectionery.

[L] The writer means ether!

[M] See "Almond."

[N] No. 49.

[O] If our Correspondent had carefully read the article he so fiercely attacks, he would have seen that the authorities were Dr. Lyon Playfair's Lecture, and Professsor Fehling, in the "Wurtemberg Journal of Industry."—ED.

[P] No. 50.

[Q] No. 52.

THE END

Previous Part     1  2  3  4  5
Home - Random Browse